Rick Owens presented his Fall/Winter 2024 collection at his home and working compound in Paris, where he started his career 25 years ago. The choice of venue was a gesture of respect and humility in the face of the turbulent and violent times that the world is going through.
However, Owens also acknowledged that his decision might have alienated some of his loyal fans and followers, who usually attend his shows to find a sense of connection and solace in his artistic expression. He admitted that he might need to reconsider his approach in the future.
Owens invited some of his favorite collaborators and friends, who share his vision of a defiant and radical utopia. The collection featured inflated rubber boots, a collaboration with Straytukay, a London-based designer who experiments with architectural volumes and technical construction. Owens also incorporated a cheeky version of his signature Kiss boot, which he saw online and asked permission from the original creator, Leo Prothman, another London-based designer.
Some of the jackets and pants were made from recycled bicycle tires, courtesy of Matisse Di Maggio, a member of the Parisian BDSM community who specializes in rubber gear. Owens also asked Steven from Fecal Matter and Gena Marvin to walk his runway. Steven and Hannah of Fecal Matter are a duo who challenge the norms and judgments of society with their cheerful and provocative aesthetic. Gena Marvin is a Russian artist who risks her life for her aesthetic, as documented by filmmaker AgniiA Galdanova.
The collection was a contrast of grotesque and inhuman proportions, and cozy and luxurious materials. Owens expressed his outrage and despair at the disappointing human behavior that he witnessed in his lifetime, but also his hope and optimism for a better place. The knit space suits were made from recycled cashmere, alpaca, or merinos, as well as turbo-ply shrouds and hoodies. The shaggy jumpsuits and capes were made from heavyweight felt, made with the longest alpaca fibers on a silk warp, which was washed, felted, and then brushed out. The Japanese denim was treated with layers of wax and foil, which were pressed, washed, and tumbled to create the final cracked and peeled megacrust look. All the denim was treated in an Italian wash house in Veneto, which uses smaller treatment baths to reduce water waste and a water purifying process that enables them to recycle a portion of the water used. All the denim washes were ZDHC certified.
Check out the collection below:
