Young Younger Youngest: #MFW Recap day 1 & 2
by Yari Fiocca
There are three things I treasure of my bygone boyhood:
1) pansexuality
2) hopeless loves
3) the opportunity of wearing unpretentious clothes and not to look like a dumbass
Transcending points 1 and 2, fashion hadn’t any particular substance that time, we wore clothes to simply be ourselves without too many implications. A frayed jeans, a worn sweatshirt, a creased shirt were somewhat self-reflexive and cut across other people’s appreciation. These first two days of Milan Fashion Week see designers playing with those unpretentious clothes- that are just unpretentious indeed! – without too many implications!
Milan Vukmirovic, creative director of Ports 1961, rediscovers the word LOVE. Now I ask you: Can a collection titled Army Of Love be considered as something more than a collection made of unpretentious clothes for unpretentious young boys? I dunno! Anyway, the offering was a soft exercise of romanticism and Nineties minimalism which feasts your eyes upon a naive wardrobe that’s too naive even for a Dawson’s Creek aficionado. Ermenegildo Zegna delivered a fresh collection of sublime beauty where high tailoring and sportswear coexist. Alessandro Sartori has finally shown the true grit he kept hidden during Berluti. You can always count on Melbostad’s Diesel Black Gold if your libido is particularly subdued. Well, it’s such a shame this time was not so. I cannot deny that Andreas’s take was winning, this time as ever, but the line has lost much of his mature masculinity in favour of a more undeveloped one.
Diesel Black Gold FW17
Christian Pellizzari evokes the Hollywood Recency and, even if I’m not a big fan of maximalism, I have to give my approval to the opulent brocade, iridescent satin and (oh Jesus!) gold lurex jacquard. Just one remark: palm prints were so Puglisi SS14! La Triennale is the setting for Marras’ show but I’m not sure it was really a show and, most importantly, I’m not sure it was about fashion. It was more a concept that, in any case, I haven’t understood yet. The foundation of Neil Barrett line is tailoring and contrasting silhouettes. After two seasons of a tedious sameness, Neil showed an intense and convincing collection that looks back at his heritage with modernity.
Neil Barrett FW17
Notte Vandebosch draw inspiration from the world of aviation and late 70’s punk. The upshot could be disastrous in other hands but Les Hommes know how to mix things and mix them good. Marcelo Burlon presented his New Renaissance where extreme proportions and bold silhouettes took center stage while Jeremy Scott focused on Action Man, the Guardians Of The Galaxy and other typical Moschino creatures. This season Phillip Plein went out the door with his first line and back through the window with Plein Sport. The show was trashy in the perfect Plein style and pretty surreal to be defined sportswear.
Les Hommes FW17
The views and opinions expressed in this piece are those of the author, and do not necessarily reflect the position of Fucking Young! as a whole.
Givenchy “Rottweiler” Capsule Collection
The Contemporary Classic
Our photographer Emil Huseynzade went backstage at ModaLisboa to capture the menswear looks from SANGUE NOVO, in exclusive for Fucking Young!
Zach Delf photographed by Sanem Ozman and styled by Talia Voon, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
For its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Rhude explores the idea of the Renaissance Man.
Trashy Clothing’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection is called “Bikini Diplomacy.” It begins with a feeling of déjà vu.
Sandro Vepkhvadze photographed and styled by Beka Gulva, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
Duran Lantink’s first collection for Jean Paul Gaultier is called “JUNIOR.”
With this collection, Ludovic de Saint Sernin crowns a new aristocracy. In this world, elegance is a form of liberation, sensuality is power, and the ultimate luxury is belonging.
Maison Kitsuné presents its SS26 collection, titled Voyage Vestiaire. This season marks the debut of the house’s new Creative Director, Abigail Smiley-Smith.
Lacoste’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, The Locker Room, shows us the moment when each player steps into their purpose.
Alessandro Michele unveils his Valentino SS26 collection, “Fireflies,” a sartorial manifesto inspired by Pier Paolo Pasolini’s writings on finding light and desire in the dark.
Ann Demeulemeester is known for creating a strong contrast between structure and softness, but for Spring/Summer 2026, it was the softer side that came out.
We talked with HOLD NYC about how Hustlers redefines what it means to dress and to hustle today.
BOSS, in collaboration with the Aston Martin Aramco Formula One Team, is offering a new way to experience racing.
For her first-ever trainer collaboration, London-based designer Priya Ahluwalia has partnered with PUMA to reconsider the iconic Suede.
Photographer Angelo Pennetta captured DiMarco in the streets and small shops of the 11th arrondissement.
Artist Josué Thomas presents a photographic project titled I ♥ Paris (quand ce n’est pas la fashion week). It is a meditation on the city, focusing on the life that exists beyond its most famous events.
Guided by designer Daisuke Obana’s philosophy of deconstruction and reassembly, the capsule collection filters Baracuta’s British heritage through a minimalist and detail-oriented lens.
Kyle Ponte captured by the lens of Dylan Perlot and styled by Dina Vibes, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
“Paul Smith Loves Barbour” offers twenty-three reimagined classics. It includes iconic coats, knitwear, and accessories.
The fashion label grounds presented its SS26 collection in a raw, brutalist parking garage during Paris Fashion Week. The setting set the tone for what was inside.
The act of getting dressed is a personal audition for the day ahead. We create a silhouette and try on different versions of ourselves until the look fits the part we want to play.
Luxury house TOM FORD, creatively directed by Haider Ackermann, presented its Spring/Summer 2026 collection at Paris Fashion Week.
For its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Casablanca finds its rhythm in house music.
Eli Tuia, Santan and Tyler Matthews at People Agency shot by Abhishek Gambhir and styled by Coco Poco Loco, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
Magma’s third edition is called “Archive of the Future.” It brings together twenty-five artists, writers, and composers.
For its ninth collection, Fear of God looks to baseball. This is not just a theme, but a core part of the brand’s vision.
For its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, KSENIASCHNAIDER makes its London Fashion Week debut.
Hugo Gonzalez, Sebastián Terranova, Miquel Villena and Nil Frago shot by Carlos Venegas and styled by Magda Rodriguez, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
This season, Mr P. is telling a story with dogs. Their new campaign, “Man’s Best Friend,” focuses on four creative men and their pets.
Camper has reopened its main store in Barcelona. Located in the Eixample district, the space was redesigned by local designer Max Enrich.
