Young Younger Youngest: #MFW Recap day 1 & 2
by Yari Fiocca
There are three things I treasure of my bygone boyhood:
1) pansexuality
2) hopeless loves
3) the opportunity of wearing unpretentious clothes and not to look like a dumbass
Transcending points 1 and 2, fashion hadn’t any particular substance that time, we wore clothes to simply be ourselves without too many implications. A frayed jeans, a worn sweatshirt, a creased shirt were somewhat self-reflexive and cut across other people’s appreciation. These first two days of Milan Fashion Week see designers playing with those unpretentious clothes- that are just unpretentious indeed! – without too many implications!
Milan Vukmirovic, creative director of Ports 1961, rediscovers the word LOVE. Now I ask you: Can a collection titled Army Of Love be considered as something more than a collection made of unpretentious clothes for unpretentious young boys? I dunno! Anyway, the offering was a soft exercise of romanticism and Nineties minimalism which feasts your eyes upon a naive wardrobe that’s too naive even for a Dawson’s Creek aficionado. Ermenegildo Zegna delivered a fresh collection of sublime beauty where high tailoring and sportswear coexist. Alessandro Sartori has finally shown the true grit he kept hidden during Berluti. You can always count on Melbostad’s Diesel Black Gold if your libido is particularly subdued. Well, it’s such a shame this time was not so. I cannot deny that Andreas’s take was winning, this time as ever, but the line has lost much of his mature masculinity in favour of a more undeveloped one.
Diesel Black Gold FW17
Christian Pellizzari evokes the Hollywood Recency and, even if I’m not a big fan of maximalism, I have to give my approval to the opulent brocade, iridescent satin and (oh Jesus!) gold lurex jacquard. Just one remark: palm prints were so Puglisi SS14! La Triennale is the setting for Marras’ show but I’m not sure it was really a show and, most importantly, I’m not sure it was about fashion. It was more a concept that, in any case, I haven’t understood yet. The foundation of Neil Barrett line is tailoring and contrasting silhouettes. After two seasons of a tedious sameness, Neil showed an intense and convincing collection that looks back at his heritage with modernity.
Neil Barrett FW17
Notte Vandebosch draw inspiration from the world of aviation and late 70’s punk. The upshot could be disastrous in other hands but Les Hommes know how to mix things and mix them good. Marcelo Burlon presented his New Renaissance where extreme proportions and bold silhouettes took center stage while Jeremy Scott focused on Action Man, the Guardians Of The Galaxy and other typical Moschino creatures. This season Phillip Plein went out the door with his first line and back through the window with Plein Sport. The show was trashy in the perfect Plein style and pretty surreal to be defined sportswear.
Les Hommes FW17
The views and opinions expressed in this piece are those of the author, and do not necessarily reflect the position of Fucking Young! as a whole.
Givenchy “Rottweiler” Capsule Collection
The Contemporary Classic
Ilyusha photographed by Carl Niklas and styled by Artem Sparrow, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
The campaign explores the passage of time and the poetry found in life’s natural cycles.
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Simone Rocha unveiled the lookbook for its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, shot by Eimear Lynch and styled by Robbie Spencer.
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What connects the craft of Puglia to the design language of Copenhagen? The answer, much like a good meal, lies in the ingredients and the care put into it.
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trônes 2 picks up where the 2023 edition left off, an exciting collaboration with Romain Bitton and continues our exploration of what a “throne” can mean today.
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Paul Nitze at KULT MODELS Germany photographed by Ian Ludwar and styled by Nawid Qureischi, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
Saint Laurent Rive Droite in Paris is presenting an exhibition of work by the American artist Maximilian Schubert.
Moncler’s new campaign brings together two lifelong friends: Al Pacino and Robert De Niro.
At 080 Barcelona Fashion, Andalusian label Lemāchet unveils an intimate, refined collection that turns nostalgia into a statement of style while it celebrates emotion as the new form of masculinity.
The Dominic Albano Collection introduces the Sand Tank. This minimalist piece is designed to honor fluidity, identity, and freedom.
For its Fall/Winter 2025 collection, FOUND continues to explore the space between its two influences: South Asian tradition and rural Americana.
The Spanish actress Ester Expósito, the brand’s global ambassador, invites everyone to step inside this kaleidoscopic world.
Stepping into “Bass” by Steve McQueen at the Schaulager Basel is like entering a space where sound and light become living, shaped atmospheres.
Vivobarefoot has released a new version of its performance shoe, the Primus Flow.
Dior revisits the world of skiing for its Spring 2026 Lifestyle Capsule.
The collaboration, launching in June 2025, reimagines this emblematic design for a new generation.
From October 15, 2025, to January 25, 2026, the Maison Européenne de la Photographie (MEP) in Paris will host Tyler Mitchell’s first solo exhibition in France, titled Wish This Was Real.
Italian brand Fiorucci hosts an intimate dinner in Milan celebrating Jason Hendrik Hansma’s immersive solo exhibition
MM6 Maison Margiela and Salomon present their Fall/Winter 2025 collaboration.
His work focuses not on the game itself, but on the culture that surrounds it.
