Young Younger Youngest: #MFW Recap day 1 & 2
by Yari Fiocca
There are three things I treasure of my bygone boyhood:
1) pansexuality
2) hopeless loves
3) the opportunity of wearing unpretentious clothes and not to look like a dumbass
Transcending points 1 and 2, fashion hadn’t any particular substance that time, we wore clothes to simply be ourselves without too many implications. A frayed jeans, a worn sweatshirt, a creased shirt were somewhat self-reflexive and cut across other people’s appreciation. These first two days of Milan Fashion Week see designers playing with those unpretentious clothes- that are just unpretentious indeed! – without too many implications!
Milan Vukmirovic, creative director of Ports 1961, rediscovers the word LOVE. Now I ask you: Can a collection titled Army Of Love be considered as something more than a collection made of unpretentious clothes for unpretentious young boys? I dunno! Anyway, the offering was a soft exercise of romanticism and Nineties minimalism which feasts your eyes upon a naive wardrobe that’s too naive even for a Dawson’s Creek aficionado. Ermenegildo Zegna delivered a fresh collection of sublime beauty where high tailoring and sportswear coexist. Alessandro Sartori has finally shown the true grit he kept hidden during Berluti. You can always count on Melbostad’s Diesel Black Gold if your libido is particularly subdued. Well, it’s such a shame this time was not so. I cannot deny that Andreas’s take was winning, this time as ever, but the line has lost much of his mature masculinity in favour of a more undeveloped one.
Diesel Black Gold FW17
Christian Pellizzari evokes the Hollywood Recency and, even if I’m not a big fan of maximalism, I have to give my approval to the opulent brocade, iridescent satin and (oh Jesus!) gold lurex jacquard. Just one remark: palm prints were so Puglisi SS14! La Triennale is the setting for Marras’ show but I’m not sure it was really a show and, most importantly, I’m not sure it was about fashion. It was more a concept that, in any case, I haven’t understood yet. The foundation of Neil Barrett line is tailoring and contrasting silhouettes. After two seasons of a tedious sameness, Neil showed an intense and convincing collection that looks back at his heritage with modernity.
Neil Barrett FW17
Notte Vandebosch draw inspiration from the world of aviation and late 70’s punk. The upshot could be disastrous in other hands but Les Hommes know how to mix things and mix them good. Marcelo Burlon presented his New Renaissance where extreme proportions and bold silhouettes took center stage while Jeremy Scott focused on Action Man, the Guardians Of The Galaxy and other typical Moschino creatures. This season Phillip Plein went out the door with his first line and back through the window with Plein Sport. The show was trashy in the perfect Plein style and pretty surreal to be defined sportswear.
Les Hommes FW17
The views and opinions expressed in this piece are those of the author, and do not necessarily reflect the position of Fucking Young! as a whole.
Givenchy “Rottweiler” Capsule Collection
The Contemporary Classic
Gucci introduces a new sneaker, the Gucci Shift, designed for motion. It translates the House’s athletic history into a form made for the rhythm of now.
Setchu Perfume is a collection of five fragrances, each continuing the brand’s search for balance, joy, and strength.
Deep in the hills of Abruzzo, at a place called Villaggio Cirulli, a simple but powerful idea took shape: no one is just a number.
Take a look at Campillo’s Spring/Summer 2026 backstage, captured by the lens of Spencer Stovell during New York Fashion Week, in exclusive for Fucking Young!
FANG NYC made its New York Fashion Week debut with a Spring/Summer 2026 collection that drew a clear line from the past to a specific future.
Valentino Garavani and Vans unveiled the campaign images for its new collaboration.
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Ami Paris has unveiled a new staple for the wardrobe: the Mirage sneaker.
Peter Demas photographed by Chris Fucile, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
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A shoe should feel good from the first step. That’s the idea behind Camper’s new unisex sneaker, the Karst 2.
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Photographed by Juergen Teller and styled by Jodie Barnes, the campaign features models Alex Consani and Leon Dame.
The message is an invitation. It’s a call to “cum” together, to join what they playfully term the “Carne Cummunity.”
SOLID HOMME applies its own clean, specific point of view to the iconic MA-1 flight jacket from Alpha Industries.
Balenciaga just unveiled a collection of ten fragrances. This launch moves beyond traditional perfumery, built instead on fusion and tension.
Dior has unveiled a new bag for the Winter 2025-2026 collection: the Dior Slider hobo.
A store should feel like it belongs. That’s the idea behind the newly reopened Camper flagship on Madrid’s Calle de Serrano.
Desigual introduced its new premium line, Desigual Studio, with a fashion show in Barcelona last night.
We caught up with Parcels in Paris to learn more about their new album.
The brand’s latest collection draws directly from its functional roots, reinterpreting the classic workwear that built its name for a modern audience.
The 36th edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion has announced its schedule, bringing together 24 designers and brands to present their new collections.
93 Sierra/Crosses has released its Fall/Winter 2025 collection, and it continues to build on the brand’s strong identity.
For its second year as Correspondent Designer, Les Benjamins closed Dubai Fashion Week with a new chapter titled “El Gringo”.
Oakley has unveiled its latest project with global football icon Kylian Mbappé, and it centers on a cool idea: artifacts from the future.
Y-3 returns with a campaign for its Fall/Winter 2025 collection, and it chooses a distinct voice to tell its story.
This has been a long-awaited offering for those who cherish the brand’s signature scents.
