Young Younger Youngest: #MFW Recap day 1 & 2
by Yari Fiocca
There are three things I treasure of my bygone boyhood:
1) pansexuality
2) hopeless loves
3) the opportunity of wearing unpretentious clothes and not to look like a dumbass
Transcending points 1 and 2, fashion hadn’t any particular substance that time, we wore clothes to simply be ourselves without too many implications. A frayed jeans, a worn sweatshirt, a creased shirt were somewhat self-reflexive and cut across other people’s appreciation. These first two days of Milan Fashion Week see designers playing with those unpretentious clothes- that are just unpretentious indeed! – without too many implications!
Milan Vukmirovic, creative director of Ports 1961, rediscovers the word LOVE. Now I ask you: Can a collection titled Army Of Love be considered as something more than a collection made of unpretentious clothes for unpretentious young boys? I dunno! Anyway, the offering was a soft exercise of romanticism and Nineties minimalism which feasts your eyes upon a naive wardrobe that’s too naive even for a Dawson’s Creek aficionado. Ermenegildo Zegna delivered a fresh collection of sublime beauty where high tailoring and sportswear coexist. Alessandro Sartori has finally shown the true grit he kept hidden during Berluti. You can always count on Melbostad’s Diesel Black Gold if your libido is particularly subdued. Well, it’s such a shame this time was not so. I cannot deny that Andreas’s take was winning, this time as ever, but the line has lost much of his mature masculinity in favour of a more undeveloped one.
Diesel Black Gold FW17
Christian Pellizzari evokes the Hollywood Recency and, even if I’m not a big fan of maximalism, I have to give my approval to the opulent brocade, iridescent satin and (oh Jesus!) gold lurex jacquard. Just one remark: palm prints were so Puglisi SS14! La Triennale is the setting for Marras’ show but I’m not sure it was really a show and, most importantly, I’m not sure it was about fashion. It was more a concept that, in any case, I haven’t understood yet. The foundation of Neil Barrett line is tailoring and contrasting silhouettes. After two seasons of a tedious sameness, Neil showed an intense and convincing collection that looks back at his heritage with modernity.
Neil Barrett FW17
Notte Vandebosch draw inspiration from the world of aviation and late 70’s punk. The upshot could be disastrous in other hands but Les Hommes know how to mix things and mix them good. Marcelo Burlon presented his New Renaissance where extreme proportions and bold silhouettes took center stage while Jeremy Scott focused on Action Man, the Guardians Of The Galaxy and other typical Moschino creatures. This season Phillip Plein went out the door with his first line and back through the window with Plein Sport. The show was trashy in the perfect Plein style and pretty surreal to be defined sportswear.
Les Hommes FW17
The views and opinions expressed in this piece are those of the author, and do not necessarily reflect the position of Fucking Young! as a whole.
Givenchy “Rottweiler” Capsule Collection
The Contemporary Classic
Daniel Solano captured by the lens of Arthur Coelho and styled by Dana Fracalossi, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
For his second couture show closing Haute Couture Week, Kevin Germanier chose to have fun.
Glass Cypress’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, The Ones Who Flee, is a meditation on movement, not just physical escape, but the deeper act of resisting what binds us.
For Oakley, it’s been five decades of innovation, turning science into design, and refusing to blend in.
Alan Crocetti’s latest collection, Hard Core Fantasy, is a deeply personal exploration of identity, desire, and self-protection through jewelry.
Francisco Terra’s 15th-anniversary collection for Maldito is a midnight ride through memory, a fever dream of teenage longing stitched into lace and rhinestones.
LARUICCI’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection bottles the chaotic charm of early 2000s Hollywood.
PRISMA’s latest collection isn’t about hiding but about what happens when you stop trying to.
HEREU is marking its 10th anniversary with Memory. A Play of Twos, a photobook that captures a decade of creative exchange.
In a time of movement and uncertainty, Estelita Mendonça’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection questions what clothing means when stability feels like a luxury.
We talked with Ziggy Chen to learn more about the thinking behind PRITRIKE, his process and his relationship with materials.
Take a look at C.R.E.O.L.E’s Spring/Summer 2026 backstage, captured by the lens of Spencer Stovell during Paris Fashion Week, in exclusive for Fucking Young!
Glenn Martens’ Maison Margiela Artisanal collection doesn’t just borrow from history, but it fractures it, reassembles it, and wears it like a second skin.
This weekend, Eastpak reminded us that backpacks aren’t just carriers of belongings – they’re carriers of stories, creativity, and identity
For Spring/Summer 2026, A. A. Spectrum finds inspiration in quiet moments, the natural ease of creativity, and the unforced beauty of renewal.
For Spring/Summer 2026, AV Vattev’s Bohème collection takes its cues from two iconic worlds: the effortless cool of French New Wave cinema and the raw energy of British music subcultures.
Concrete Husband talks about turning psychological collapse into industrial soundscapes, confronting darkness on Berghain’s dancefloor, and why dark techno is, above all, sexy.
Maciej Poplonyk photographed by Arthur Iskandarov and styled by Egor Telenchenko, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
Titled “YOU DO NOT BELONG HERE,” the visuals strip away ambiguity, trading fantasy for sharp, cinematic storytelling.
We met Yoon Ambush – Co-founder and Creative Director of AMBUSH – in Paris during Men’s Fashion Week.
Les Benjamins has turned its attention to the tennis court with a new collection that mixes sport and style.
GUESS JEANS has officially arrived in Tokyo, opening its first Asian flagship store in the heart of the city’s fashion district.
WHOLE is a pilgrimage for the global queer community, a temporary world where joy, radical acceptance, and self-expression reign supreme.
Alexis Otero captured by the lens of Lucas Lei, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
Levi’s® is celebrating Oasis’ long-awaited reunion with a new collection that combines the band’s iconic style with classic denim.
There’s no bitterness in the heartbreak here, just the sense that longing isn’t defeat, but proof you’re alive.
We had the chance to catch up with Ohio-born, Brooklyn-based designer Kody Phillips in his Paris Fashion Week showroom where he unveiled his Spring/Summer 2026 collection.
Dean and Dan doubled down on their love of fashion’s most dramatic moments, remixing 80s power dressing, 90s grunge, and 2000s excess into something entirely their own.
Gerrit Jacob’s latest collection, GAME OVER, isn’t about surviving the wild but about surviving the grind.
Telekom Electronic Beats (TEB) and 032c are turning 25, and they’re celebrating with a capsule collection and an installation by Harry Nuriev. Titled All is Sound.
