Ann Demeulemeester Autumn/Winter 2023
by Gabriel Córdoba Acosta
French people support and love Ludovic de Saint Sernin, as was evident on the day of his (successful) debut as creative director of the fashion house Ann Demeulemeester. Every big show implies big chaos at the entrance, taking the word in the best of its acceptations, as all the followers and fans that the designer harvests flocked to the doors of the Lycée Carnot (where the show was held) to show their love for him. Some went to great lengths to gain access to the venue, even forging the invitations sent out by the brand…but hey, it’s fashion week. Anything goes, you know.
No one wanted to miss the show, and when we say no one, we mean absolutely no one, just ask actor Jared Leto, who, taking advantage of the fact that he was in Paris for a few days, decided to sit in the front row, to discover first hand what Saint Sernin had prepared for the hundreds of guests who attended the parade, where the dimensions of the venue undoubtedly caught their attention. They were huge and that was already a foretaste that something big was going to happen and that it was time to celebrate the new Demeulemeester Era.
Everything was black, except for the catwalk, which was designed as a chessboard in shades of grey, which matched the looks designed by Ludovic. Illuminated by a white light that accompanied the models as they walked, it was possible to appreciate with precision the involvement of Sant Sernin in each of the garments belonging to the Fall/Winter 2023 proposal, whose birth arises from a feeling of intimacy and respect that recognizes Ann’s legacy and heritage through the eyes of a new author, which takes the form of a love letter, written on leather and knitted with a feather – an element that Ann Demeulemeester herself loved and which Ludovic has brought back – in the thirty-six looks that made up the line presented during Paris Fashion Week.
Sensuality, something that represents the new creative director very well, was not lacking, as was the introduction of new colors, never seen before in Demeulemeester’s history, such as burgundy and aubergine. Black and white, the brand’s key colors, tinged the rest of the looks, which suggested closeness and intimacy and exuded (some of them) an equestrian touch, in part because of the boots, with which some pieces of tailoring on the men’s side and transparent men’s dresses were accompanied. The black fur Xl bags did the rest, elevating the looks even more.
The letter written by Ludovic de Saint Sernin has a clear addressee, and that is you, to whom he dedicates his latest work and thanks you for the affection you have always given him. The moment of celebration has arrived and it is time to uncork the bottle of the best champagne you have and toast to the new beginnings that will surely be followed by a continuation and many more successes. Bravo!
Check out the collection below:
Marco Ribeiro Fall/Winter 2023
Society
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