“Welcome at Diesel. Diesel is denim”. With this phrase, the Italian brand founded by Renzo Rosso in 1978 and currently creatively directed by Belgian designer Glenn Martens, Diesel, kicked off its long-awaited show, held during Milan Fashion Week, to which celebrities such as Damiano David (main figure of the Maneskin group and current ambassador of the house), Khalid, or Marwan Pablo, didn’t hesitate for a second to attend.
The space chosen for the show was huge, a fact that warned that what was about to happen was going to be great, like most of the works that Glenn usually presents and also like the carpet that prevailed in it, made from 14,800 kg of denim remnants, to spread even more the concept of circularity and highlight the beauty of waste. On it, accompanied by the intense and characteristic music of the D shows and doing their best not to stumble, the dozens of models in the cast appeared little by little, wearing the looks from the Spring/Summer 2025 collection.
Denim was the star of the first part of the show, and Martens proved that even the most basic of fabrics in the industry can be reimagined and made complex. From jeans or tops with frayed V-necklines that simulate a kind of lacing, to floor-length monk coats and well-constructed Prince of Wales suits printed in PVC or made with double-loom jacquard, achieved by laser cutting. As can be seen, wonders were done with denim, and even experiments, resulting in a handmade coat made entirely from leftover spools of denim yarn.
Following on from the aforementioned was another of the house’s favourite fabrics, leather, featured mainly in outerwear, inspired by and related to the trend of quiet luxury. Yes, surprisingly, there were clean coats with seemingly no logos to be visible, some of them with details in the shape of long fringes.
Although sobriety has been present, the true Diesel spirit is well known, and that’s when the more cheerful colour palette comes to the fore and is shown in different garments such as jumpers, T-shirts, or polo shirts, or in reworked and reused archive handkerchiefs prints. As a curiosity, these prints were covered on a pleated fabric and then opened up, creating the effect of a draped, enveloping trompe l’oeil.
Finally, the accessories – an indispensable part of the brand – made it clear how important they are in constructing a look, for example, the debut of the ‘Play-Double-D’ bag, a sculptural version of the play, the trompe l’oeil boots that simulate skin-tight jeans, and the sunglasses, the first line developed with Luxottica’s new licensee.
Glenn Martens has again proved how good a designer he is and that everything he touches becomes fashion.
Check out the Diesel Spring/Summer 2025 collection below:
