BERTHOLD Spring/Summer 2018
by Melissa Eakin




























For Raimund Berthold’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection, he explored the study of masculinity and conflict through taking inspiration from a series of photographs of child soldiers across Sierra Leone, Uganda, Liberia, and Nigeria. The experience of youthful boyhood finding identity in their masculinity and power is evident through the collection’s use of oversized funnel necks, enlarged sleeves, and playful colour palette used against military shapes.
Noted military details included the three embroidered topstitching stripes seen in the inner elbow of several garments, long sleeve shirts tied across the chest referencing cross body straps, and utilitarian bags. Although it may not be a direct reference, the various use of graphic colours and bold prints bared resemblance to that of African flags and representations of modern tribalism. Some key examples included the cyan blue, red and yellow, calf-length trench coat with asymmetric pocket placement and the boyish oversized rainbow striped funnel shirt and rainwear poncho.
Halfway through the show, models came onto the runway in full canary yellow looks, displaying Berthold’s new colour palette for the season. Unlike previous seasons, there was a vibrancy of mood, uplifting the audience away from the usual muted tones so often seen. These looks featured contrasting black popper buttons and ties, exaggerated sleeves and longer, knee length trouser styles.
Despite the utilitarian references, much of the collection could equally be seen as a representation of femininity. For example we saw cropped nylon tops, synched waists emphasizing hips and short-shorts, exposing legs and highlighting the figure. The lightweight textures and beachwear-like luxe pieces, exemplify Berthold’s understanding of the modern man who is unafraid to champion his body.
The mood of Berthold’s collection was completed with sleeked back hair, small framed dark sunglasses by Cutler and Gross, and thick rubber soled airwair Dr. Martens sandals; all communicating the harmonious balance between boyish innocence and a masculine power.
Tourne de Transmission SS18 Backstage!
BIBI CHEMNITZ x KROM
We caught up with Billy to chat on film, fashion, and fear, but it was clear that he is passionately nerdy about music.
Six years after his last album, Dev Hynes, better known as Blood Orange, announces Essex Honey, set for release on August 29th, 2025.
Arte Antwerp treats design as something everyone should own, wear, and use to say something.
Far different from the Ibiza of neon-lit clubs, this is a nine-acre sanctuary where rustic Spanish finca charm meets understated Soho House cool.
Pull&Bear’s latest capsule collection draws inspiration from Henri Matisse, transforming his playful shapes and vivid colors into summer-ready clothes and accessories.
Jason Fejiro photographed by Johanna Stroud and styled by Jay Taglè, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
For the first time, the work of more than 60 artists who have lived and created at the TOM House will come together in FXLK PLAY: Mythmaking, Devotion, and Mischief, an exhibition opening September 12, 2025, at Long Hall in West Hollywood’s Plummer Park.
Oakley is taking its expertise from extreme sports to outer space.
There’s something raw and electric in Last Exit on Bethnal, the new collaborative project between London producer/DJ Hannah Holland and filmmaker/photographer Lydia Garnett.
JIL SANDER backed the production of a seven-track EP and the Hamburg-shot music video for the song “Wanderlust”.
Balenciaga’s Winter 2025 campaign strips away polish in favor of something more intriguing: real moments in real spaces.
Marine Serre unveiled the first chapter of its “Heads or Tails” campaign, captured by the lens of Julia et Vincent.
Thirty students from fashion schools across Europe will gather in Barcelona this November to tackle one of the industry’s biggest challenges: waste.
The Phantom of the Opera has chosen his designer. Nicola Formichetti has been appointed Director of Masks for Masquerade, the new immersive Phantom experience coming to New York.
MM6 Maison Margiela and Dr. Martens are teaming up again, this time with a capsule that twists classic Docs into something fresh.
Kwir Nou Éxist project, a photo installation conceived by model, actress and activist Raya Martigny and her partner Edouard Richard, is now on view until July 25 in the iconic Tuileries Garden in Paris.
The legacy of Virgil Abloh will soon be celebrated at the Grand Palais in Paris with an exhibition developed in collaboration with Nike.
MODUS VIVENDI’s latest swimwear collection is made for days in the sun, with pieces that catch the eye without costing the earth.
Liam Goofy at Two Managment photographed by Martina Moreno and styled by Marta Ros, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
BIMBA Y LOLA has introduced its new DOG LOVERS COLLECTION, a capsule line celebrating dogs and their owners.
Nanushka’s Pre-Spring 2026 collection, Reflections, takes cues from Austrian thinker Rudolf Steiner’s belief that spirit and material are inseparable.
The wait and speculation are over. Almost a month after Francesco Risso’s departure, Marni now has a new Creative Director: Belgian designer Meryll Rogge.
Spanish-Nigerian designer Wekaforé Jibril has made history with the opening of his first standalone boutique in Barcelona, becoming the first Black designer to establish a flagship store in Spain.
“It’s an honour to work with Burberry,” Wu said. “The brand’s dedication to its heritage and innovation results in pieces that never fail to amaze. I look forward to discovering what we’ll create together.”
ICECREAM EU has teamed up with END. to launch a special capsule collection celebrating END.’s 20th anniversary.
Harrison Sheehan photographed and styled by Carlos Venegas, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
The Studio Archive is a new series releasing original Polaroids taken by the founder of Dominic Albano Collection.
C2H4® is slowing down. Instead of chasing seasons, their R011 Collection is built to last: one carefully crafted lineup per year, designed to stay relevant long after the trends fade.
We had the opportunity to chat with Martin about the great skincare reset and what we can learn from Danish clean beauty.