It’s the first fair of the year and the one that many designers dream of being invited to present their respective proposals. Yes, this is Pitti Uomo, the unmissable men’s fashion event that is currently celebrating its 105th edition and the official prelude to Milan Fashion Week.

The Italian city of Florence, for several days, is considered by many to be the place to be for the fashion industry, and no wonder, given that the collections that are unveiled there are quite interesting, as far as analysis is concerned. The first to appear and set foot on Florentine soil was the American designer Todd Snyder, who gladly accepted the invitation and travelled from New York to captivate all those present who were anxiously waiting to see if his skills of craftsmanship were still as good as they had been, given that he had not shown for four years. Indeed, and as expected, those skills were still in place, intact, and even more perfect, as evidenced by the 80 looks Todd presented, some from his own line and others from his debut as creative director of Woolrich’s new premium line called “Black Label”.

As for the first part of the show, related to his eponymous brand, it was called “The Modernist” and defined by Snyder himself as powerful. To develop it, the designer decided to take inspiration and explore the world of music, and in particular, the musician Loyle Carner, who he said backstage had always been one of his favourites. Thanks to him and all the influences received from the deep analysis, the Fall/Winter 2024 wardrobe has been created, offering through it a new point of view of the meaning of British draping. Remember that although Todd is American, he has a deep admiration for classic Savile Row tailoring. And it’s not just tailoring that makes up this part, but casual clothes that never lose the formal touch, such as coats, tweed waistcoats, or trousers in different shapes and rich fabrics (some from the Tuscan area) that are combined with different tops and lace-up boots with socks over them or boots with elastic on the sides. Will this be the infallible look for the T.S. boys next Fall/Winter? Everything points to yes.

On the second, Todd has managed to elevate Woolrich and make it look as rich as its eponymous brand. From now on, a part of the company will take a new direction and offer its audience doses of elegance and refinement, integrated into the reimagined clothes, belonging to the brand’s archive. Some of the garments from this project were seen at the Florence show while others will be seen at the Milan presentation shortly. A wide range of coats in different fabrics and types such as parkas, jackets, or trench coats; knitted or down jumpers; quilted trousers, and many more will be part of the wardrobes of classic but modern men.

Have a look below at the two Todd Snyder lines presented at the 105th edition of Pitti Uomo: