Artem Shumov by Polina Tverdaya
“Follow me, reader! Who told you that there is no true, faithful, eternal love in this world! May the liar’s vile tongue be cut out! Follow me, my reader, and me alone, and I will show you such a love!” – Mikhail Bulgakov, The Master and Margarita
Love has different forms: the one you feel for your beloved, for life, for culture. Artem Shumov’s – young designer based in St. Petersburg – for fashion is an unconventional form of love. It is abstract but coherent. It is evolutionary. It is modern. It is a young love, impetuous to the point of becoming passion. In his fashion, neither artifice nor imitation. Instead, it’s a love full of lightness and fun. In his items, street-culture is interwoven with the textures of the fabrics. The inspiration comes from the sportswear. His curiosity pushes him to investigate the very meaning of casual, to deconstruct and reinvent it. His collections are contextualized in time and space, with no apparent compromises.
We met him in the aftermath of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia where he presented for the first time his work and here it is what he told us.
Fucking Young! – Hello Artem! Complete this sentence: “For me fashion is …”
Artem Shumov – Fun.
F.Y! – Over the last twenty five years, Russia has gone through a profound change in terms of social, economic and political. How does fashion within this new order? What was its evolution?
A.S. – We had many changes over the last 25 years. Fashion design was kind of lost back in the USSR. We had mostly very clean and grey Soviet Style during those times. It was more of an «Industrial» fashion. 20 years later everything changed so quickly, many designers looked like lost puppies. Nobody knew what was happening with a society. That’s why designers couldn`t create clear collections from season to season. But finally, we have found our own style. What is Russian fashion industry for me? It is a mix of willing to create beauty and a basic need to survive. Some of Russian designers maybe even forgot about the beauty part and nowadays are concerned only about their brand surviving.
Artem Shumov SS17 collection presented during the past edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
F.Y! – If you went in Moscow up to fifteen years ago you could witness the triumph of the high brands and, above all, of the big logos. Was this shameless exhibition dictated by the need to emphasize a newfound well-being? Since the, How the taste of the average costumers changed? What they are looking for today and what represent the emerging brands like yours?
A.S. – This used to be a part of our culture. We’ve always had nobles who were born nobles and others who became nobles. First type of nobles had education and taste. The second type came from poverty. And they wanted to state: «We worked hard to make this money, we’re never going back». Something similar happened in USSR. We didn’t have much in USSR. But suddenly, money and brands came to the country and people wanted to have it. It is ok. I think costumers have had enough of big logos. I hope so. They want to buy an interesting product, not just name.
F.Y! – If I write Thom Browne what do you reply me?
A.S. – Shapes and grey.
Artem Shumov SS17 collection presented during the past edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
F.Y! – You have collaborated with the designers Tatyana Parfionova, Lilia Kisselenko and Vika Gazinskaya and, before, with the Mariinsky Theatre and Russian Zenit football club. How do you think these experiences have influenced your current work?
A.S. – I’ve found my own way working with different designers. They helped me to make my style more clean.
F.Y! – You live in Shanghai and your brand is based in St. Petersburg. How do you mix the souls of these two so different cities?
A.S. – Well, those cities do have different souls, but I have my own too.
F.Y! – Why you have chosen to walk the runway of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia? What can offer as plus an emerging platform to an emerging designer?
A.S. – Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia has given me a grant. And I am so thankful to them for it, not a lot of platforms help young brands.
F.Y! – In your opinion, what are the characteristics that a young brand should have to establish itself on the market of today?
A.S. – Of course, young designers feel street energy much better than big brands. I think young designers should reflect of a young society. Streets. With time they can collect information and knowledge. It helps to highlight their own vision. A unique style is the main idea of all brands, I guess.
Artem Shumov SS17 collection presented during the past edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
F.Y! – In the new SS17, you have continued to explore sport chic. The collection is based on sports jackets and coats, and of course jumpsuits. As always, you have used natural fabrics: cotton, wool and cashmere. Unusual details such as stand collar, piping sleeves and satin stripes called for some new to the brand materials rayon, nylon 66 and microfiber. Spring color scheme with several shades of beige and grey is highlighted by bright yellow and light blue. Tell us about…
A.S. – Athletic, classic, blue eyed boys, fun, comfort. It is about guys who have already accomplished a lot. Now they need a little break to enjoy the moment, to enjoy their life, sports, to think about what they have achieved. After that they will be ready for the next chapter in life.
F.Y! – The most representative item?
A.S. – A light-grey cashmere suit with turquoise stripes.
F.Y! – The song that better describes Artem Shumov, the brand of course?
A.S. – What a fun question! I’ve got one coming up to my mind:
I ain’t got no home, ain’t got no shoes
Ain’t got no money, ain’t got no class
Ain’t got no skirts, ain’t got no sweater
Ain’t got no perfume, ain’t got no bed
Ain’t got no mind.
By beautiful Nina Simone of course.
F.Y! – As always our last question… According to you, what is really FUCKING YOUNG!?
A.S. – Boys!
