LUEDER Spring/Summer 2025
by Adriano Batista
LUEDER‘s Spring/Summer 2025 collection delves into the medieval art of alchemy, exploring the transformative purification stage of Albedo, the second of four major stages of Magnum Opus. Inspired by the concept of dividing and connecting opposing principles, the collection fuses darkness and light, creating a spectrum of chemical transformation.
Hand-dyed garments in vibrant ombre hues, achieved through a water-saving process, reflect the first signs of corrosion. The presence of alchemy is further emphasized through the use of oxidized brass and steel amulets, created by long-time collaborator Thomas P. Grogan. The resulting rust stains and distressed prints add a raw, authentic feel to the pieces.
Medieval armor remains the grounding root of LUEDER’s design inspiration. The collection features statement raw denim rangers uniforms, armor-like hoods layered over hoodies, and the brand’s signature twisted draping technique. For the first time, soft tailoring is introduced, replicating the rigid formation of armor while maintaining comfort and style.
Beyond the physical transformation, LUEDER reflects on the personal and spiritual aspects of alchemy, represented by the medieval jester. This character, a symbol of mixed emotions and exaggerated self, embodies the clash of identity and consciousness. Inspired by the jester’s mask, LUEDER collaborates with Felix Riemann to create a face mask that evokes both power and vulnerability.
Check out the collection below:
Junio
Cotte D’Armes Spring/Summer 2025
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