Sensitive as it may seem, deep down, designer Simon Porte, better known as Jacquemus, is a real rebel, as he has returned to set his times (in terms of presenting new work) and has stood up to the premise that many of his colleagues in the profession suffer from today, having to work against the clock.
This strategy, which he has been following for a few years now, seems to be working quite well for him; it only takes a minute to realise the impressive development and growth that the brand has undergone. Jacquemus has become a safe bet, no matter what. And no, we’re not going to ignore the fact that the social networks or the stage designs for each of its fashion shows have had an influence, but since, at the end of the day, it is a company…
There will be those who don’t understand his success or those who detract from it because of the aforementioned factors, but what can’t be denied is that Porte, wherever he goes, manages to generate sensations and emotions that no one else can, especially when it comes to the presentations of his collections. In the days following the event, the designer’s thousands of followers often echo his work and share their favourite looks on social media. Everyone dreams of attending one of his shows, including industry workers, some of whom, in this case, have already replaced the word show with the word experience.
Each of them has been held in a different location, all more spectacular than the last, and always with a story behind it. The last one took place in the south of France, at the Fondation Maeght, and there, among works of art by Giacometti, Braque, and Calder, the Ready-To-Wear 2024 Spring collection called “Les Sculptures” was presented, inspired by the years the designer spent in Paris and his personal growth.
During this period of his life, Simon was very aware of the bourgeois style, a style he has reimagined and given contemporary and chic touches so that it is not boring. On the men’s side of the line, what was most visible was tailoring, refined, and delicate at the highest level. Earlier we said that Jacquemus always goes the extra mile, and so it is because instead of designing standard tailoring, he wanted to give them a new meaning and introduce rounded shapes, for example, look number 16, where the tailored trousers extend their length and turn it into a kind of circle. The circular shapes are not only seen on the trousers but also on the upper parts of the sleeve area, which become tubular.
Asymmetrical shapes also have a place in this proposal, and an example are the shirts with distorted edges, or the tailored trousers in look number 12, which give the sensation of having been stretched on one side and which are combined with the designer’s new shoes, in the form of sandals with integrated socks as a trompe l’oeil. Footwear always plays an important role in creating a look, and Simon knows this, which is why he has created this and a completely different, lace-up, square silhouette and classic style in collaboration with the iconic Repetto brand. The low circular heel on this one adds a fun touch.
Bags, an indispensable part of the brand’s growth, complemented the offer. This season they come in a stylish and sophisticated form and are called “Le Vanito”, with a circular shape, and “Le Tourni”, in the shape of a briefcase with a front closure.
Have a look at the Jacquemus Spring/Summer 2024 collection below:
