Daniel Lee’s third collection as creative director of British fashion house Burberry put the finishing touch to what has undoubtedly been one of the best editions to date of London Fashion Week. It has been a long time since the city has breathed so much creativity and fashion as it has done during these days. The occasion deserved it, given that it was the 40th edition.
The Burberry show is one of the main attractions of LFW, as well as one of the most anticipated, by all the commercial activation that takes place during the week before the event, the incredible set design that the team always creates, by the endless list of celebrities who travel exclusively to the UK to attend the show, and above all by the novelties that each season brings the firm, which unlike the previous, are many more.
Winter 2024 collection was by far Daniel’s best work for the company, seen on the runway. Both womenswear and menswear were perfectly connected and nothing was out of context at any moment. When it comes to moments, the firm is at the top of its game and it’s all thanks to Lee, who already has a master’s in resurrecting companies. He did it at Bottega Veneta and now he’s doing it at Burberry – how? By reimagining the house’s most classic classics and turning them into contemporary, avant-garde garments that want to be worn by people of all ages. It’s time for a breath of fresh air, and Burberry delivers it, without being crass. That word has no place in the British designer’s vision, there is only room for sensibility, and that faculty is reflected in the knitted jumpers with plunging necklines, some of them accompanied by feathers placed in the shoulder area. The feathers had a life of their own and glided down the catwalk like swans. They spoke for themselves, as did the dozens of trousers with half-open zips down the front. It was clear that they wanted to be heard.
Having a voice and expressing one’s opinions is something every human being is entitled to, but there are times when one prefers to remain silent and unnoticed. For those days, Burberry men, whether in the city or the British countryside, wrap a scarf in the most iconic check pattern in fashion history around their heads, babushka-style, and grab their coats (available in several versions) to protect themselves from the cold with the warmth they bring, and from the stares of others, while covering up the relaxed, carefree look underneath.
Relaxed clothing is fine for everyday wear or the occasional impromptu dinner party, but for more formal situations, the Briton proposes a series of tailored suits in rich fabrics, with reinforced shoulders and large lapels that just wearing them evokes power and a bossy vibe, seen from a new point of view, neither forced nor serious.
In addition to the looks, mostly in neutral and earthy nature colours, there were functional bags and shoes with iconic signature motifs based on the archive and the equestrian gentleman – long live the archive and long live Daniel Lee! Because Burberry has never looked so cool.
Check out the Burberry Winter 2024 collection below:
