When we talk about fresh air we don’t mean the extreme cold during the last edition of Berlin Fashion Week (5-8 February), but the freshness, novelty, and avant-garde brought by the German designers who recently presented their Fall/Winter 2024 proposals there.
BFW is in full development and growth and again we say that German fashion is still relevant, even if some say otherwise. To refute this argument of little weight, there is a whole generation of designers (some younger and others more established), ready to offer the best of themselves, to go far, and above all to break all kinds of molds and barriers, because unfortunately there are still some.
Do you want to know who some of them are? Then read on:
GERRIT JACOB
German fashion rebel Gerrit Jacob opened the Berlin fashion week by presenting, in a location that seemed tailor-made for him, his Fall/Winter 2024 collection called “Made in Heaven”. As a curiosity of the title, this serves as an homage to the series of photographs of the 90s by Jeff Koons and Cicciolina and reflects the nostalgic kitsch of supermarket novels.
The main idea of the line has to do with the awkward but transformative stages of adolescence, always capturing the essence of this generation’s self-identity and the perfect blend of childhood relics with the first symbols of emerging young adulthood.
Each piece in his collection tells a story, embodying the confusion, excitement, and nostalgia of this crucial and transformative period, and is inspired by the eclectic and contradictory elements of a teenager’s bedroom. The color palette is vibrant, like the designer himself, and the shades range from pink or purple to green. The last mentioned was the one in charge of dyeing one of the looks that the attendees liked the most, a two-piece set of jacket and trousers, made with quilt-like fabric that caught the attention because of the length of its sleeves and the bottom of the trousers, as well as its print, characteristic of Gerrit. Honestly, it made you want to wear and live in it every day.
Jacob has made his runway debut in the best possible way, with visually stunning work and a message to connect with the thousands of fans who already revere him.
MARKE
From the revolutionary designer, we moved on to the calmer and more classical Mario Keine, founder and creative director of MARKE, who presented his Fall/Winter 2024-2025 collection among abstract sculptures strategically placed in Berlin’s Pressecafé, which fitted perfectly with the dim lighting and the soundtrack called “Dont Vient Cela”, composed exclusively by Robert Eisinger and inspired by Renaissance dance music.
All these elements made Keine’s fashion show an intimate encounter that touched those present, demonstrating in turn that German fashion understands other registers beyond what everyone imagines. The line, displayed with subtlety and elegance, is a continuation of last season and is dedicated to everything that lies and grows inside you from the moment you are born. Focusing now on the new proposal, it pays homage to all the external influences and people you meet and shape in life.
To develop all the designs, Mario has reflected on his own life and has captured in them the sensations generated by the people who have passed through his life and the different stages of it, and that, consequently, have shaped his characteristic style. On this, the designer commented: “Every encounter, every person I have met, every word they have said to me. I accept them as gifts and always carry them with me like talismans”.
And taking advantage of the mention of the word talisman, what are talismans are the looks presented on the catwalk, designed as if they were a way of life, special as can be, and best of all, sustainable, as they were all obtained in a circular form from cantilevers of fabrics from Italian productions, developed in Cologne and manufactured in Germany and Poland.
Mario is going in the right direction and the world should know it!
ANONYMOUS CLUB by Shayne Oliver
It was one of the most eagerly awaited shows of the first day of Berlin Fashion Week and you could feel it in the atmosphere. Nobody belonging to the German fashion system wanted to miss this event, not even Stefano Pilatti himself, who walked in the show, or Kanye West, who, although nobody saw him, was apparently in the room, as he shared a series of images and videos on his Instagram profile. Let’s remember that West is a close friend of Shayne Oliver, the designer responsible for Anonymous Club.
For those who have not yet heard of this project, it is the creative studio run by Shayne, a Minnesota-born designer who has been living in Berlin for some time. His work embraces the language of art, performance, and music, fostering a unique and unparalleled space for expression and collaborations with other artists, transgressing creative boundaries.
Now that you know more about Oliver’s new project, let’s talk about his Spring/Summer 2024 collection which was about memory, seen from a fun perspective. S.O. wanted to celebrate his past, his truth, and his form, and he did it, how? By designing dozens of avant-garde looks with impossible silhouettes and mixing materials and colors. The highlight of his proposal was the outerwear in different shapes, combined with wellies because you know that even if it’s spring or summer in Berlin, it’s more or less always grey and you never know when it’s going to rain.
Rain or shine, we are sure that more than one or two will be seen on the streets of the city wearing the Anonymous Club designs, as the debut was a success and the collection received a great wave of applause. A secret: at the end of the show some locals said it was the best show Berlin had had in a long time.
HADERLUMP
HADERLUMP helped us recover from the hangover of the first day of the Berlin Fashion Week shows. What are you supposed to do when you have that feeling? Hydrate and drink lots of water. This element, also known as H2O, played an important role in the event, as the silver-colored catwalk where the models walked with a determined step was full of water. Fortunately, everyone made it through unscathed and there were no falls, and the attention that was initially focused on the models’ feet was automatically directed to the looks of the Fall/Winter 2024-2025 collection called “Circularis”.
The color palette chosen to develop the line was dark ( except for one part), predominantly black, brown, and occasionally cream/white. These colors were the ones responsible for dyeing the garments with relaxed silhouettes in the form of tailoring, shirts with asymmetrical details, and jumpers with openings and a deconstructed look.
Beyond these pieces, others also caught the eye and correspond to the part mentioned in brackets above. These were part of the collaboration with the famous DHL courier service and added a fun touch to the proposal, as they were made using the company’s characteristic colors, red and yellow, and, of course, the logo.
Which of the two parts of the line is more interesting to you? We have our favorite.
Richert Beil
Right after HADERLUMP, it was the turn of Richert Beil, another Berlin Fashion Week favourite. The brand founded by the designer duo Jale Richert and Michele Beil is also always one of the most eagerly awaited ones. This time it was no less so, and guests flocked to the venue to discover first-hand “HERITAGE”, the proposal they had prepared to celebrate the brand’s 10th anniversary, to the sound of nostalgic songs, flowers, and cake.
A decade in the industry doesn’t come around every day, so it’s worth celebrating. Jale and Michele did it in style, offering those present a collection worth remembering, partly because some of the most distinctive pieces and fabrics from the 2015 debut collection were present, albeit reinterpreted.
The new work on the show focused on appreciating the heritage of traditional German fashion and the style of their grandmothers. Such inspiration was captured in bold silhouettes, such as precise tailoring, modest yet sophisticated ensembles, cardigans, blouses, and more. Many of the looks, worn by people of different ages/bodies/ethnicities, were completed with sentimental accessories such as pearls, necklaces, and brooches; looks that represented a blend of personal style, comfort, and vintage influences, creating a unique and endearing fashion that spoke to their life journey.
On top of all this, there were also “Treasure Hunt” pieces on display, which are designs partially or completely reclaimed from recycled materials, such as old saddles, vintage sashes, and old shoelaces.
Richert Beil never disappoints, maybe that’s why it’s been in the industry for a decade…
SIA ARNIKA
Danish designer Sia Arnika, winner of Berlin Contemporary, was one of the highlights of the third day of shows, presenting her looks for Fall/Winter 2024-2025 in a former club at Potsdamer Platz. The location explains which icon from the silent film era inspired her. Who? Asta Nielsen, a Danish woman born in 1881 rose through the silent film ranks in Berlin.
It all stemmed from the appearance of this captivating woman. From that moment on, Arnika began to create a fictional figure that possessed some of the values for which Nielsen triumphed, such as sensuality and disturbing darkness, and to develop her collection, which explores the power of transformation through clothes, fabrics, and expression.
This exploration of different elements was reflected in some of the few menswear looks seen, most notably a black three-quarter length coat revealing a tulle turtleneck top and biker-style trousers worn with boots with a little heel.
Sia has yet to take the plunge into 100% menswear design, but the few looks she has presented, contemporary and edgy, have once again captivated everyone. Will there be more next season? Let’s hope so!
SF1OG
Last but not least, SF1OG was in charge of closing Berlin Fashion Week and elevated it again to another level, thanks to its captivating Fall/Winter 2024-2025 collection, presented in the gymnasium of the Ernst-Reuter-Schule in Berlin-Mitte. Curiously, this school has a special mission, which is to change the way its students perceive themselves and how they perceive themselves.
On this occasion, the brand’s creative director, Rosa Marga Dahl, was inspired to create the line by school life in the former East Germany, creating a multi-generational perspective on school days. Those who follow the designer and the brand know how much she loves to delve into the past to create stunning looks for the present.
All of the looks deserve scrutiny, in part for the craftsmanship and attention to detail that Dahl and her team have given to the irregularly striped shirts, pleated skirts, and ties, as well as for the creation of exciting textures through the reuse of 18th and 19th-century linen, leather and other materials.
Accessories, like clothing, were the star of the show, in particular the four backpacks in collaboration with Eastpak made from repurposed materials, combining a rebellious attitude and elements of historical designs with the brand’s iconic shapes. Footwear was provided by Dr. Martens, who highlighted the show with some classics as well as new models presented by SF1OG.
SF1OG is in the industry to challenge its norms and why not, to break or change them.
Of all the designers and brands we’ve talked about, which one do you like the most? In addition to all of them, many others might catch your attention. You can discover them on the official website of Berlin Fashion Week.
The dates for the next edition of Berlin Fashion Week have been announced, 1-4 July. See you there?
