BALMAIN Fall/Winter 2020
by Anna Barr
Olivier Rousteing presented his collection for the luxury house Balmain set in the warehouses’ district of La Villette. The former slaughterhouse was a great choice for the label to expose the location (favorited among Parisians for music concerts, avant-garde performances, and summertime open-air cinema) during Paris Fashion Week. Many celebrities and out of town visitors are stuck in their golden triangle bubble while claiming to love the City of Lights, so it was refreshing to see them make their way up north where inside the iron and glass Grande Halle hosted a huge desert-inspired backdrop with sand inspired carpentry.
The collection begins with iconic wide shoulder and Rousteing staple cropped jackets and drop crotched pants. While everything begin with neutrals we were later greeted with bold primaries injecting a tongue in cheek MC Hammer Vibe. But it was the elegant fabrics, embroidered blousons, and soft tailoring wrapped in a desert warrior theme that stole the collection. While at first glance you can easily imagine winters spent down South, there was no shortage of heavy wool coats with military embellishments making an appearance. Closing the show was an ensemble modern dance followed by the stern-faced models breaking into ecstatic boyish cheers and smiles. Reminding us, you are never fully dressed without a smile!
Vetements Fall/Winter 2020
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