Alain Paul Fall/Winter 2025
by Anna Barr
Alain Paul unveiled his Fall/Winter 2025-26 at the iconic Théatre du Châtelet during Paris Fashion Week. The highly anticipated show follows the announcement just weeks earlier that he is an LVMH Prize 2025 semi-finalist. This season, Alain Paul continues a dialogue with codes of a dancer. The two states of dress are depicted in tensions between the formal and dramatic against the casual and intimate through examinations of the dancers’ off-stage and on-stage dress regulations, which are inextricably related to the craft and its physicality. The dualities are expressed through emotional and gestural silhouettes that are based on androgynous conversations between freedom and form.
Cashmere, traceable wools, and deadstock luxury wools are repurposed to make jackets and suits. Padded nylon outerwear captures a dancer’s interplay between performance and reality by mirroring the performer’s movements and emotions in the actual world. Materials are draped and stitched to change with the body’s movements, contracting and folding with fluid motion. This approach builds on the idea that the off-duty performer is always conditioned by the all-consuming physicality of their craft. Shifts and pivots on the body enhance gestures and movements while defying physical proportional rules and playing with ideas of balance and symmetry.
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