On February 22nd, the fashion industry came to a complete standstill when it was announced that Y/PROJECT, the brand founded and creatively directed by Glenn Martens, was cancelling its Paris Fashion Week show with only ten days’ notice. We all know what happens when this kind of news comes out, and rumours start to circulate immediately. The reason given, “Uncertain times”, seemed to be unconvincing, and it started to be heard that the collection was not finished. Maybe so, but sometimes it’s better to wait and present a work when it’s reviewed and finished than to do it halfway simply to fit into a calendar; and even more so if it’s something special like this one, which serves as a celebration of a decade in the sector for the designer and his fashion and accessories company.

Whatever the real reason, the Belgian has stood up to the industry and decided to set his standards. They say that whoever doesn’t take risks doesn’t win, and well, once again this has proven to be true, as the Fall/Winter 2024 proposal presented in lookbook format, has captivated the majority and, as it usually happens with every work he presents, has flooded the social networks. The latter has happened because of how avant-garde Martens’ designs continue to be season after season, but also because of the celebrities who appear in the portfolio of images wearing the garments, including rappers Ye (Kanye West) and Tyga, singer Charlie XCX, supermodels Irina Shayk and Natasha Poly, Glenn’s father Matthias Martens, and many more.

Nowadays, there are many well-known brands and fashion houses that decide to include such personalities to increase their notoriety. In this particular case, although it doesn’t need it because everything that makes up the line is particularly eye-catching, Y/PROJECT has joined this group for the first time, but only because it is a special date. All the cast members answered yes to G.M.’s call and flew to the French capital to take part in the launch, named ERRATUM.

If there’s one thing that makes this one stand out, it’s how clear Glenn Martens is one of the best designers of his generation or at least one of the few who knows how to manage certain silhouettes and volumes and not make it look too much when they’re put together. The dark colour palette used in the casual/relaxed style pieces has helped to do this, as it takes away the excess information that can be present.

Less is more is what we are used to hearing. In Y/P’s case, it’s precisely the opposite, although the design team always tries to keep it on point and not to saturate, but to generate an illusion and make people dream with a more creative point of view of fashion than what has been proposed by others in the last seasons.

Take a look at the Y/PROJECT Fall/Winter 2024 collection below: