Can we talk about what happened this weekend in Paris during Fashion Week? It is a rhetorical question because regardless of the answer, we are going to do it, as it is necessary. This whole pretext is related to the last fashion show held by the Swiss fashion house VETEMENTS, creatively directed by Guram Gvasalia.
The show in particular was not just another one in the official calendar, but “THE SHOW” in capital letters, for several reasons. Firstly, because it was the firm’s return to the catwalks after a brief hiatus, secondly, it was the tenth anniversary of its foundation, and lastly, because of all the expectation that had been generated around it, something usual in every activity they carry out. Whatever the reason, nobody wanted to miss it, and when we say nobody, we mean Cher herself, who sat in the front row of the Pavillon Cambon to discover the novelties that Guram had prepared, and well, also to see her boyfriend Alexander Edwards walk, who was part of the exclusive casting of models that came to the call of Mr. Gvasalia, among which were the actress Marcia Cross, the supermodel Carmen Kass, or the youngest member of the Hadid family Anwar, and many others.
Mr. Gvasalia, as you can see, only surrounds himself with good, select, and well-dressed people, of course with garments of the VETEMENTS aesthetic. There will be those who, after ten years, still don’t understand its success, but like it or not, from the moment it appeared, it marked a before and after in the industry. Some brands generate a lot of impact when they appear, but after a couple of seasons, they disappear. This has not happened with the fashion house just the opposite has happened. The pieces that can be found there continue to make an impact. As far as the Fall/Winter 2024 season is concerned, presented on a red carpet runway to match the light of the set, it is clear that creativity is something that continues to dominate the designer. As an example of this are the oversized oversized clothes, serving as a continuation of last season, but bringing a touch of the avant-garde due to the crinkled look they have. This effect is found in a wide selection of sporty/urban style pieces, such as T-shirts, shirts, trousers, and in more elegant tailoring.
Tailoring is a field that Guram is particularly fond of and always explores. Here he does it particularly well and knows he has everything to win, especially when he goes further. The suits he proposes are oversized, not close-fitting, that is out of fashion; with large shoulder pads and lapels that denote power; and rich fabrics. These are accompanied by coats of the same style, creating a monochromatic and timeless look.
Timeless means eternal and what will never be out is the ironic touch of VETEMENTS. Although the team may look serious and cold, they are fun-loving people at heart and they show it by adding messages on their T-shirts that say “Team Aniston”, “Team Jolie”, “My Mom’s favourite” or “I’m retired. This is as dressed up I get”. They also have fun reimagining the logo of a well-known adult content website or joining several T-shirts and turning them into one; upcycling they say.
VETEMENTS has no limits and breaks through any barrier that comes its way, just like the military or aviators do. These professionals have served once again as inspiration for the designer and this influence has manifested itself in a total camouflage look or in the typical jackets they wear, the bomber jackets, of course oversized.
Military men are like the firm’s team, they want to look tough but then they like to have a good time and break the rules. The ones who are like that, take off the camouflage suit and replace it with one that shines even brighter than when the Eiffel Tower twinkles.
Paris has seen the success of VETEMENTS again and turned it upside down. Check out the Fall/Winter 2024 collection below:
