The Best of London Collections: MEN
by Lee Dales
London Collections: Men was back again in full force for FW14 last week, with a creative cocktail of super-cool emerging designers and well-known names. London is no stranger to pushing the boundaries, and many of these were pushed during the week, with gender-bending references, sexual undertones and rave-ravaged party shows. The best bits for us were definitely these…
Astrid Andersen
Muscle mania prowled the catwalk in London as Astrid Andersen’s beefy boys took to the runway with their street-ready swagger. Sporty track pants, baseball tees, bombers, slogan sweats and bulked-up puffa jackets made a macho masculine statement. The testosterone level tripled with slashed crop shirts and tight lycra that flashed bulky body-parts and gym-fit six-packs. Sheer-lace jumpsuits and tees made it borderline sexual. But the oversized trousers, logo-overload separates and chunky metal necklaces gave a gritty Hip-Hop twist to proceedings, with flashy turquoise and gold colours to ramp up the loud “look at me” factor. Swirl-print satin fabrics and sleek, lustrous shirts added an edge of exclusivity to the power-punch designs.
J.W. Anderson
Androgynous architecture from Antoni Gaudi met 80s power-dressing from the style stars of “Dallas.” This was our initial musing at the JW Anderson show, when pampered pretty boys with immaculate high-heeled shoes glided across the floor in super-exclusive outfits. Playful prints and perfect facades gave a touch of 80s New Romanticism that mixed eloquently with affluent 80s essentials such as wide power-pad shoulders, big collars, extravagant frills and high-waist trousers. Deep and revealing V-neck cuts, patent leather shirts, tight-clasp black collars and thick rolls of bonding tape gave a daring nod to S&M bondage, whilst sheer-mesh blouses, flesh-flash capes and big-frill jackets gave a hint of femme-fatale dominance. Our favourite looks were the floral-print ensembles in slick precious jewel tones.
Christopher Shannon
Our favourite show in London this year was a raucous retro-revival of 70s print and psychedelic sportswear. Models walked out in trainers and tracksuits with wet post-shower hair like they had just finished football training. Cool cartoon jumpers featured Andy Warhol style illustrations of cigarette packets with kitsch writing on them against bright colour-burst backgrounds. Tracksuits, hoodies and all-weather football coach puffas were emblazoned with 70s flower-power wallpaper patterns, while the colour palette remained bright like a pack of Crayola pencils. The pièce de résistance was the sugar-coated soundtrack featuring 90s pop classics such as Dane Bowers and Victoria Beckham “You’re out of your mind….!” Pop-culture panache at its best 😉
Kay Kwok
When we saw the warning sign at the entrance to the showspace saying “Danger! Flashing lights ahead”, we knew that we were in for some fun! But not a deep house rave with disco lights in outer space! As soon as the models marched down the runway to the sounds of pumping beats and cosmic electro lights, we were transported to a different dimension. Long coats, shimmering tunics and tailored suits were taken to the twilight zone with extra-terrestrial prints of satellites, solar sunsets and friendly aliens on acid. Star Wars facemasks added to the inter-galactic vibe, and the metal disc structures wrapped around some of the models looked like the remains of crashed UFOs. It was literally from another galaxy…
Bobby Abley
The sugar-sweet world of Disney got turned on its head with a twisted nightmare of warped prints and devilish Disney details. Mickey Mouse ear hats gave an obvious glance to the Disney dreamland, but looks took a darker turn when Disney’s most evil and famous character Maleficent from “Sleeping Beauty” appeared in the form of devil-horn baseball caps. Her devious black crow sidekick Diablo was splashed across t-shirts, trousers and sweats, whilst frightened cartoon eyes looked on across cropped tees. The Disney palace appeared on one jumper, whilst sinister slogans in Disney fonts such as Dream On and RIP made it clear that we were no longer in Fantasia land. But teddy bears, candy pink and Palma violet fur pieces added a welcome dash of childish fun and frolics.
Werk Out
Christian L’Enfant Roi FW14 Preview
The book challenges narrow ideas of beauty and masculinity by simply letting men exist, unpolished and unapologetic, across generations.
The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao has opened the Barbara Kruger exhibition, Another day. Another night., curated by Lekha Hileman Waitoller and sponsored by Occident. This exhibition expands her audience and influence while pushing the limits of modern art… »
Forget ironed polos and pristine blazers. Peter Wu’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection is a tribute to the thrifted sweaters, the cut-off Dickies, the flannel pajama pants worn to early morning lectures.
Amsterdam’s Daily Paper has teamed up with Oakley to reimagine the Gascan sunglasses, combining streetwear storytelling with technical innovation.
Berlin’s KitKat Club became the perfect runway for #DAMUR’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, “Get Wet.”
COLRS unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection “JUMPING FENCES” during Berlin Fashion Week, bottling the reckless energy of a Brazilian summer.
On July 1st at Berlin’s old Tempelhof Airport, BALLETSHOFER staged a runway show that challenged how we dress for travel.
At Berlin Fashion Week, Andrej Gronau presented its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Alpine Fiction.
At Berlin Fashion Week, Orange Culture unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, “In the Shadows.”
Berlin Fashion Week served as the stage for SF1OG’s SS26 collection, a deeply personal examination of love’s darker edges, obsession, fragility, and emotional unraveling.
Lenny aka Futura 2000, took the time to speak with us ahead of the exclusive launch.
This summer, Ludovic de Saint Sernin revisits Fire Island to relaunch its swim line with a campaign steeped in erotic freedom and community reverence.
Chitose Abe remains one of the most avant-garde voices of her generation, capable of injecting freshness, desire, and direction into a fashion that needs it more than ever.
K-Way’s new men’s summer collection focuses on keeping things cool, comfortable, and practical.
PUMA and JJJJound have done it again. Their latest collaboration takes the spiked silhouette of the 1999 PUMA Mostro and strips it down to its essentials.
This Pride month, The Barcelona EDITION isn’t just waving a flag—it’s becoming one. From graphic art explosions to drag royalty brunches, the hotel pulses with a raw, vivid celebration of queer creativity, inclusion, and unfiltered joy.
At Galerie Sultana, Gardouch presented its second collection, Playing Pretend, not as mere clothing but as objects that hold fragments of memory.
Zico steps into the brand’s world as part of its ongoing mission to connect with cultural leaders across fashion, music, and art.
The “White” Pack reimagines Skepta’s signature Skope Forever sneaker in an arctic palette.
The question hangs heavy in the air: How do we keep making clothes when the world burns?
Haderlump’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection breathes new life into Ex Libris, translating these historical markers into wearable narratives.
Francesco Risso joined forces with artists Olaolu Slawn and Soldier Boyfriend for something raw, immediate, and deeply personal.
For Spring/Summer 2026, David Koma presented I LOVE DAVID at Berlin Fashion Week, a menswear collection that balances humor with depth.
SLⱯY, unveiled during Berlin Fashion Week, takes the ancient tale of Saint George and the Dragon and flips it into a meditation on modern battles.
Change isn’t always about moving forward, but sometimes, it’s about holding on. For their Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Milieuschutz, Richert Beil explores exactly that tension.
Inspired by the hidden love stories of novels like Maurice, Swimming in the Dark, and Young Mungo, the collection moves through three emotional stages of queer coming-of-age: concealment, self-acceptance, and the bittersweet weight of memory.
Through its new CGI campaign, “Beyond Real, Beyond Now,” and a community-driven approach, REVERSIBLE is bridging the gap between inspiration and accessibility.
Eugenio Elverdin photographed by Lucas Ricci and styled by Gaston Olmos, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
There’s a particular kind of freedom that comes with movement, and AMBUSH’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, “Tribe on the Move,” captures that feeling.
Louis Vuitton’s latest travel campaign takes viewers on a visual journey through China, reimagining travel as an experience rather than just a destination.
