Nature is healing in New York City as the streets are no longer beset by a pandemic-riddled winter. “Nature,” in this case, refers to the vibrant creative scene, and “healing” signals the return to a carefree and unbound state facilitated by the lowering of Covid restrictions. For an introduction to this spirited community headed by independent photographers, designers, models and directors, one need not look further than New York City’s own Nicholas Wolf.
Wolf was born in Brooklyn, raised in Trinidad and Belize, and laid creative roots in Texas and New York City throughout his teenage years. Now only 22 years old, Nicholas Wolf is a designer, creative director, photographer and model with dreams, nay, plans, that stretch across a number of creative mediums. His most recent project, a high-fashion streetwear label called Until Further Notice, is another credit on Wolf’s creative CV and a launch pad for his large-scale creative plans. From his studio space in New York, Nicholas Wolf tells FY! about the imminent launch of his brand, his view of symbiosis between garment and wearer, and his long-term dream of expanding into fashion’s most prestigious club: couture.
Can you tell me about your relationship with clothing, and menswear in particular, as a model, but also as a designer?
[Clothing] is a form of expression that I feel brought out the best version of myself when I didn’t feel like anyone around me understood. It’s always been a part of my life since before I was born; my mom worked for a fashion magazine, my dad was just a fly guy that would never step outside looking bad. I was born into it, and it became my form of expressing my emotions. I have a deeper relationship with clothes than I do with anyone. People say eventually I’ll have to choose between fashion and [my other creative pursuits], and truthfully, I’d rather be behind the camera.
When you say you have to choose, is that between modeling and being a creator?
Being a creator is how I got into modeling, ironically enough. I got into modeling through directing my own shoots. No brand just wants a model anymore, they want an artist. It’s a question of “what more do you do outside of this? What more do you have than just a pretty face?”
When you make clothing, what do you want to address about the human body, silhouette-wise?
I want [my clothes] to look like a form of art. That’s why my goal is couture: it’s the highest level of expertise when it comes to making a garment. My focus is creating universal flow and to blend with [the human body.] How can this garment make you move, and how can you make the garment move?
A symbiosis between the wearer and the garment.
Exactly! That’s what I’m trying to get to. I want people to be one with clothes like we’re one with the universe. I love the regular high fashion pieces–boots, heels, coats–but when it comes to my art pieces, I want it to be worthy of being in an art museum, like a moving sculpture.
Could you tell me more about your aspirations towards couture?
Couture has been my dream since before I can remember. I make clothes for the art form; I would rather see my clothes in a museum than on the human body. Art has no “yes” or “no.” I’m trying to make more things that don’t make sense, because I don’t think it’s supposed to make sense. I also want to make 3D couture as NFTs, but I’ll have to learn [the tech side of things] if I want to execute that.
With [the commodification of art], a little bit of everything you make has to [please people] to be appreciated and purchased so you can survive. I have to find a balance of making what people want and what I want at the same time.
How did you come up with the name “Until Further Notice”?
I couldn’t think of a name to begin with, so I thought, “Until I come up with an actual name, I’ll just use ‘Until Further Notice.’” And it stuck. I’ll keep it as my high-fashion streetwear label and my couture label will be under my name, but that’s for future deciding.
Tell me about your plans for Until Further Notice.
I’m focusing on my Spring/Summer capsule collection, and then a forthcoming Fall/Winter collection that’s going to be augmented 3D reality. I’m still trying to get used to the fashion week schedule, but I’m planning on dropping the collections closer to the actual release date than so far in advance like the regular schedule. I take the marketing of my products just as seriously as the clothes themselves, and the execution of the release to the public is very important.
The name of the upcoming collection is “Gods & Humans.” We are all part “god,” I want to make clothing for people who understand that power within themselves, hence the name. In our society, creation requires depth, pain, universal understanding… I want to make clothes for those people.
How does Until Further Notice fit into your other artistic projects?
I dance, I was part of a dance crew, and I’m trying to incorporate more choreography into my pieces on a ballet-level. Filmmaking, directing, short films… I want to allow [the brand] to branch out into other things that are just as important [as clothing.] I’ve never personally been one thing, so my brand can’t be one thing either. Every single thing I could do with it, I want to.
Do you have a favorite piece of clothing you’ve made?
It was a sketch of a bodysuit I made that I was able to bring to life exactly how I [drew] it. The boots I made as well–I love making things that require to take something apart in order to make something new. Lastly, the Eclipse Bag. Definitely my top three.
What are you looking forward to during this next year?
I’m really looking forward to my fall collection, traveling because my goal is to move to London, and doing more things that bother people. I like frustrating people [who don’t understand my designs.] You either like it or you don’t, I don’t really care. It’s a beautiful thing to have an effect on people to where they understand your art, but not everyone gets it, and I’m okay with that.
You can keep up with the upcoming Until Further Notice launch here.
