MILAN FASHION WEEK SS17 #Recap Day 1 & 2
by Yari Fiocca

A journalist’s awakening during the fashion week’s razzmatazz is not like ‘the prince kisses sleeping beauty’ et voilà…wide awake! As soon as you wake up in the morning, you already have the lactic acid up in muscles just thinking that you’ll trot back home late after a day of stampede here and there around the city.
This #MFW started on Friday night with Milan Vukmirovic’s Ports 1961 that will be hardly account as one of the most interesting Milan’s show- Milan is both for the man and the city!- the boy in uniform has always a certain swag but, that was not exactly what we expected from a man, Milan, that is able to impeccably portray beauty and simplicity, not this time as it emerged! Shortly after the Dsquared’s recipe for a disaster took the stage at Via Ceresio, just in front of the Monumentale cemetery. I have personally commended the show for its social content- gay liberation and respect toward differences- but visually and commercially speaking I couldn’t help but forcefully dispraise it.
Saturday there was a heavy agenda and things have gone pretty well. Christian Pellizzari at 9:30 was kind of a trauma- not the collection but the schedule. The juxtaposition of two namesake cities, Italian Venice and Californian Venice Beach, produced a captivating outcome. A stone’s throw from Bergognone 34, at the Armani/Teatro, Miaoran staged his Ichthyophobia made up of minimal clothes with a particular attention to textures. Canali’s offering was an ode to a classic yet innovative Italian tailoring, fresh but deeply rooted in traditions. Rodolfo Paglialunga orchestrated a honest-Jil collection for Jil Sander: pure, discreet but striking.
A short break to bolt down a gigantic pizza- I’m not that kind of carbophobic sickie!- and I got back on track to Marni where Consuelo Castiglioni revealed- I can say it straight away!- one of the best fashion moment of the (next) season. It seems that Marni’s boy is increasingly pursuing a very fucking young sophistication. Thundering Donatella broke the rules at Versace and plans a revamp. Lightweight parachute-parkas, the VeryVersace silk shirt changed into a bomber jacket and a surprising farewell to opulence sound good as a new opener. Downtown, the neoclassic Palazzo Serbelloni was the setting of Notte.Vandebosch’s Les Hommes show, a well-wrought offering of oversize and loose-fitting silhouettes.
Neil Barret did not work his ass off to elaborate the SS17 array. The English designer presented ensembles that are, no holds barred, a spinoff of his AW16 line but with colours fitting for summer! Pal Zileri’s Mauro Ravizza Krieger imagined a man more sensitive to the style swings but avoiding any artificial excess. Helen Anthony was a pretentious and pointless welter of Dolce, Vivienne, Nuovo Gucci, un peu McQueen and Mary Katrantzou for prints. Is it enough? There was nothing especially clever about Philipp Plein’s basketball deluxe that closed the second day of Milan Fashion Week. It was a very Plain collection! Oh, sorry for the misspelling, it’s Plein but, on second thoughts, it was Plain and Plein.
Versace Spring/Summer 2017
N° 21 Spring/Summer 2017
Temple of Love marks Palais Galliera’s first exhibition in Paris devoted to the work of avant-garde fashion designer and cult figure Rick Owens.
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A confirmation that many of us have been waiting for.
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Balenciaga unveiled its new High Summer campaign, shot by Roe Ethridge.
Prada’s Days of Summer campaign feels like a pause, a deep breath of salt air.
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For the first time, Converse and Kenzo are joining forces, mixing classic American cool with Kenzo’s vibrant energy.
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Indelicato revisits shapes and styles that matter to him, turning them into something almost ritualistic.
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Dutch designer Duran Lantink becomes the new Creative Director of French fashion house Jean Paul Gaultier.
MM6 Maison Margiela and Salomon are back with another collaboration, this time for SS25.
Unlike traditional grants or one-off prizes, this is a comprehensive two-year accelerator that provides runway production, mentorship, retail access, and a high-profile collaboration to set designers up for long-term success.
Dominik Dorner captured by the lens of Santiago Neyra, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
With a year full of surprises, the renowned French streetwear brand Bensimon is celebrating its 45th Anniversary.
In an era of disposable fashion, JAK sneakers offer something different: understated quality that lasts.
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Real magic happens with Primavera a la Ciutat, the week-long spillover of concerts taking over the city’s best venues—and the schedule just dropped.
Lejs Ibrahimovic styled himself for this exclusive Fucking Young! story captured by the lens of Julian Freyberg.
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Curated by F. Delétrain, the project blurred the line between joke and critique.
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Illustrator Nicasio Torres and Makeo.Top, a secondhand clothing project led by Eme Rock, began a collaboration that turns discarded clothes into wearable art.
Corentin Marchandet photographed by Martina Bertacchi and styled by Rebecca Sclavo, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.