Surprise! Ludovic de Saint Sernin is back at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, after celebrating the fifth anniversary of his eponymous label last September.

LdSS Fall/Winter 23 is a contemplation of five years of rise as a designer. Not just with his label, but with the seminal Belgian house Ann Demeulemeester. Seeing is believing and living is dreaming. Ludovic is achieving everything he has set out to achieve in the past. And how could it be otherwise, Saint Sernin returns to the past (which is sometimes necessary) to continue where he started, at the men’s edition of fashion week, and offer all those who revere his brand an intimate celebration of a dream come true.

It is time to toast and analyze the road traveled to reach the position in which it currently finds itself. It all started in the mid-2000s when the designer was sitting in front of a television watching FashionTV. From that moment, Ludovic visualized what he wanted to do with his life. And suddenly bam, goals are achieved, and dreams come true if you work hard and legally.

His fondness for televised fashion competitions – think Project Runway – served as a key impetus for the collection and inspiration, commissioning his team to design a series of themed capsules, as if each one were the challenge of the week on such a show.

Ludovic’s “Private Show”, as the designer himself named it, established a common ground between the sensuality of LdSS and the Belgian house he now directs. This trait was reflected in the black silk taffeta suits, the sleeveless shirts with collared collars, and the floaty skirts. His recognizable genderless creations, such as the stretch leather ensembles, were also present, as were the mini skirts and dresses that debuted on the runway.

Bags like the “Cleavage” clutch came into action to accompany the garments so that they don’t feel lonely for a single moment. Ready for the evening version of last season’s popular shoulder bag? It’s here, it’s arrived. These are worn either with graphite-colored denim shirts or with the “Mirage” skirt, pleated at the front, as well as a tight-fitting coat trimmed with denim fur.

Another highlight was the proof of the experimental capacity of the experienced LdSS atelier, the treatment of the furry fabric (the result of a meticulous selection process of the fabrics) which has become the key element of the collection. See the example of the wide-leg Yeti trousers, which took three weeks of manual labor to make.

Continuing with craftsmanship, we see how frayed bandeaux and billowing skirts in ribbed pumice knit demonstrate similar artisanal attention, as do this season’s Swarovski mesh pieces – swishy, glittering in pink, clear crystal, and ice blue. Elsewhere, sheer mesh tops are dotted with crystal versions of the brand’s monogram, which is also etched on a range of denim garments: square jackets, lace jeans, and eyelet briefs.

Logomania also made its stellar appearance, reminiscent of the time when Ludovic fell in love with fashion. It signifies an extension of his activities, marking the arrival of coats and short jackets in genuine sheepskin, the first for the brand.

Take a look at the collection below:

Shop Ludovic de Saint Sernin HERE!