Yesterday evening Madrid breathed for a couple of hours the dark atmosphere that is so prevalent in the city of Berlin. This was all thanks to Spanish designer Leandro Cano, who asked all his guests to come dressed in black to the presentation of his Fall/Winter 2024-2025 collection, called “MENÚ”. Most of them took his advice and brought out their most avant-garde outfits to sit on the wooden chairs that contrasted with the industrial location chosen (an emblematic car park in the city centre) and watch attentively what the Andalusian had prepared.

Expectation was high and palpable in the atmosphere, given that this show marked Leandro’s return to the Spanish capital after five years without presenting his work there. Cano’s proposal was led by a pair of black biker-inspired men’s looks, one of them simulating leather armour stitched on knitted fabric. The rigorous black of the pieces faded and gave way to other tones typical of the season, like camel, used in the construction of the garments with exaggerated volumes and circular silhouettes such as coats, trousers, and even jumpers.

From brown tones, they moved on to more vibrant ones like red, a colour employed to dye a perfectly tailored wool suit, which spoke for itself and exuded power, bravery, and confidence; or an oversized coat. As the line developed, the complexity increased, and this quality was reflected in the artisanal techniques incorporated, whether in the hand knitted knitted fabric with intervening ribbons, or in a unique print created for the collection: a contemporary re-interpretation of Toile de Jouy that unfolds in a variety of fabrics and includes the figures of Philip II on a motorbike cutting heads through the fields of Andalusia, and Mary Tudor with her heart in her hand.

Leandro Cano is back with “MENÚ”, a return that has certainly been an inspirational journey back to the origins of his career and his first work.

Check out the collection below: