JORDANLUCA Spring/Summer 2024
by Gabriel Córdoba Acosta
JORDANLUCA has been warming up, days before unveiling the Spring/Summer 2024 collection during Milan Fashion Week, with the new launch of its first line of sunglasses that, just by looking at them, make you want to wear during a rave night where the music is so loud you can’t even hear your thoughts. That’s what the guests at the last show of the industry’s newest fashion duo of rebellious boys experienced, because even though the show ended with a softer song, what played for most of the time was techno music, which only allowed you to get even more into the dynamics of the catwalk and concentrate on the proposal.
The set that graced the venue was red and although some associated it with Jordan and Luca’s mischievous spirit on arrival, it had a great story behind it and was related to a popular quote from cosmetics mogul Leonard Lauder, which talked about the lipstick index. This has to do with a study that talks about the increase in sales of red lipstick when people aren’t doing well. Did you know that? We didn’t, but it seems Bowen and Marchetto did, and they were inspired by this concept to create the new S/S line.
Red is historically associated with power and ritual, but at the same time, it also evokes blood, life, murder, and the lust for sex and death, themes that have been essential in the creation of the collection. This tone, at times, decides to take a back seat and give way to others such as grey, brown, neutral tones, and mud.
SS24 JORDANLUCA stands out for several reasons. Firstly for being synonymous with glamour, crisis, and the philosophy of the absurd; secondly for its emphasis on draping, austere high collars, lace, and gathers; and finally for being aimed at people who work in the financial sector and move around areas such as the City and Wall Street. Next season many will replace their boring suits with more avant-garde ones and make a difference in their workplace from the very first moment. Will the stock market rise, or will companies experience some kind of inflation? Probably yes, and that will be due to the corresponding lines and shapes that are represented according to an extreme, binary conception of male and female bodies, while still challenging gender norms.
Defiance is something that the British and Italian are quite fond of, and if we take a look at the previous season, this can be seen not only in the work presented but also in the defiant attitude with which the models took to the catwalk with a firm step, which the two designers refer to as “bulldog” style. This style is again carried through to the new trench coats and double-breasted blazers. Kilting is reimagined in the form of light, draped skirts, and blazers. These are designs for a society in its post-anxiety period, for people struggling with adversity and finding happiness in a difficult economic context.
It’s time to face the sometimes Sisyphean challenge of life with a fearlessness and optimism that, while naïve, manages to overcome tiresome cynicism. Check out the images below from the JORDANLUCA Spring/Summer 2024 collection:
Neil Barrett SS24 Backstage!
SIMON CRACKER Spring/Summer 2024
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