HELIOT EMIL’s Creative Director Julius Juul on his latest collection
by Anna Barr
Following HELIOT EMIL’s Spring/Summer 2025 fashion show during Paris Fashion Week, we got the chance to catch up with Creative Director Julius Juul backstage to discuss the intricacies of his latest collection that balances form and function creating a visual dialogue between fluid shapes and refined simplicity while photographer Tiago Pestana captures the detailing and mood.
You draw on Olafur Eliasson’s installation “Riverbed” as inspiration, tell us about your first encounter with the piece.
I went to the Louisiana Museum which housed Riverbed was there in 2014, a long time ago, a decade ago. I didn’t think much of it then as I wasn’t really aware of the whole impact it would sort of have on me, but generally, I’ve been very inspired by Olafur’s work. I actually tried to contact his studio to collaborate on something together because I’m a big fan of his work. I’m always mesmerized by how he works with the environment, how he works with things around him, and how it interacts with people. I’m very, very curious about what he will do next and fascinated by what he has done.
What has been the most challenging part of this collection? What was the most difficult piece to work on?
We have one piece, an outerwear piece, or at least it appears to be constructed like one, with around one hundred different pattern pieces. The construction and everything behind it was extremely difficult and you would never know piece it looks very simple in the end. Then we also have a down jacket that with the different slits in an interesting sort of composition, it also took several times to get it right.
You also showed a full look from your collaboration with Puma, can you tell us a bit about working with them?
The Puma collaboration is something that we’ve been working on for two years. It’s an exploration of trail running in the outdoors and we got work with amazing materials. The whole experience working with them was amazing from suppliers, working with amazing fabrics, to construction, to creating something that can both work for the outdoor environment and also in the streets.
What did you learn in the process of working with such an iconic brand that is also known for innovation?
A lot, a lot. I would say we dug down into the archives of Puma. They led us into their basement, with gloves and everything and we saw the old Jill Sander collaboration, some of the first fashion and sports collaborations in history. We saw some of the first Alexander McQueen as well, just amazing pieces that have sort of influenced a lot of how we see fashion and sportswear collaborating today. So it was amazing just to explore that and beyond that also explored what Puma has done before in terms of material innovation and in terms of overall pushing the boundaries of sportswear.
Check out more photos from HELIOT EMIL’s SS25 collection below:
Mr P. Elevates Fall/Winter 2024 with Leather Bags and Ethical Practices
Ludovic de Saint Sernin Spring/Summer 2025
We had the opportunity to chat with Martin about the great skincare reset and what we can learn from Danish clean beauty.
HAIKURE’s SS26 collection, Come As You Are, is for people who want to feel good without the effort, who wear clothes that fit their lives, not the other way around.
Daniel Solano captured by the lens of Arthur Coelho and styled by Dana Fracalossi, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
For his second couture show closing Haute Couture Week, Kevin Germanier chose to have fun.
Glass Cypress’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, The Ones Who Flee, is a meditation on movement, not just physical escape, but the deeper act of resisting what binds us.
For Oakley, it’s been five decades of innovation, turning science into design, and refusing to blend in.
Alan Crocetti’s latest collection, Hard Core Fantasy, is a deeply personal exploration of identity, desire, and self-protection through jewelry.
Francisco Terra’s 15th-anniversary collection for Maldito is a midnight ride through memory, a fever dream of teenage longing stitched into lace and rhinestones.
LARUICCI’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection bottles the chaotic charm of early 2000s Hollywood.
PRISMA’s latest collection isn’t about hiding but about what happens when you stop trying to.
HEREU is marking its 10th anniversary with Memory. A Play of Twos, a photobook that captures a decade of creative exchange.
In a time of movement and uncertainty, Estelita Mendonça’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection questions what clothing means when stability feels like a luxury.
We talked with Ziggy Chen to learn more about the thinking behind PRITRIKE, his process and his relationship with materials.
Take a look at C.R.E.O.L.E’s Spring/Summer 2026 backstage, captured by the lens of Spencer Stovell during Paris Fashion Week, in exclusive for Fucking Young!
Glenn Martens’ Maison Margiela Artisanal collection doesn’t just borrow from history, but it fractures it, reassembles it, and wears it like a second skin.
This weekend, Eastpak reminded us that backpacks aren’t just carriers of belongings – they’re carriers of stories, creativity, and identity
For Spring/Summer 2026, A. A. Spectrum finds inspiration in quiet moments, the natural ease of creativity, and the unforced beauty of renewal.
For Spring/Summer 2026, AV Vattev’s Bohème collection takes its cues from two iconic worlds: the effortless cool of French New Wave cinema and the raw energy of British music subcultures.
Concrete Husband talks about turning psychological collapse into industrial soundscapes, confronting darkness on Berghain’s dancefloor, and why dark techno is, above all, sexy.
Maciej Poplonyk photographed by Arthur Iskandarov and styled by Egor Telenchenko, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
Titled “YOU DO NOT BELONG HERE,” the visuals strip away ambiguity, trading fantasy for sharp, cinematic storytelling.
We met Yoon Ambush – Co-founder and Creative Director of AMBUSH – in Paris during Men’s Fashion Week.
Les Benjamins has turned its attention to the tennis court with a new collection that mixes sport and style.
GUESS JEANS has officially arrived in Tokyo, opening its first Asian flagship store in the heart of the city’s fashion district.
WHOLE is a pilgrimage for the global queer community, a temporary world where joy, radical acceptance, and self-expression reign supreme.
Alexis Otero captured by the lens of Lucas Lei, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
Levi’s® is celebrating Oasis’ long-awaited reunion with a new collection that combines the band’s iconic style with classic denim.
There’s no bitterness in the heartbreak here, just the sense that longing isn’t defeat, but proof you’re alive.
We had the chance to catch up with Ohio-born, Brooklyn-based designer Kody Phillips in his Paris Fashion Week showroom where he unveiled his Spring/Summer 2026 collection.
Dean and Dan doubled down on their love of fashion’s most dramatic moments, remixing 80s power dressing, 90s grunge, and 2000s excess into something entirely their own.
