GmBH Spring/Summer 2023
by Gabriel Córdoba Acosta
We have missed Benjamin A. Huseby and Serhat Isik a lot, that’s a fact, as they have missed us. It’s been a while since we’ve seen their faces unless they were presenting proposals for the Trussardi fashion house they also creatively manage. After a long hiatus, the designer duo is back in Paris to present their Spring/Summer 23 collection for GmBH, the brand with which they became known and with which they have been and still are very successful.
“Ghazal” is the name with which the two have christened their proposal. This name, written in Urdu, refers to an amatory poem or ode, characterized by a fixed number of verses and a repeated rhyme, usually set to music. It is often used to poetically express the pain of loss, separation, and the beauty of love.
While it saddens them to return to the city where they have always held their parades, it is true that they also have a sense of sadness for the various catastrophic floods that Pakistan has suffered as a result of the climate crisis, which have displaced no less than 33 million people. Pakistan is the world’s fifth largest producer of cotton, but the fashion world has been silent.
This collection is intended to be a fragmented and personal celebration of South Asian beauty and culture, as part of their ongoing investigation into its own heritage. In it, you will find collaborations such as Muhammad Fatchurofi, an Indonesian artist based in Java known for his drawings that often depict mindfulness and calm. The prints grew out of our conversations about the healing and transformative properties of water.
And there is not only the collaboration with Rofi, but also with the artist who made the prints for the autumn 2022 collection called “Talisman”, Abdelrazak Shaballot, or with the shoe brand Scholl, which, for those who don’t know it, is considered the inventor of the wooden clog (La Pescura), handmade in Italy. Together, the two brands have designed a range of sandals with technical mesh uppers.
Take a look at the collection below:
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