Milan Fashion Week couldn’t have started any other way, with Diesel leading the charge. Under the creative direction of Glenn Martens, the brand kicked off the week with a presentation that broke all conventional rules: no runway, no grand spectacle. Instead, models were showcased inside transparent, egg-shaped capsules, literally incubating the house’s refreshed menswear. It’s clear that for Martens, fashion is a game, where everyone can take a front-row seat. In this setting, Diesel revealed itself more polished and sophisticated than ever, yet still playful and streetwise at heart.

Tailoring sits at the core of the collection. Blazers, sharply cut, are disrupted by biker straps emerging from the lapels, challenging the rigidity of traditional suiting. Trousers follow suit, balancing refinement with the designer’s signature experimental touch. Coats stand out with sculptural curves, while jumpers become statement pieces through strategic openings and asymmetrical collars that echo Martens’ work at Y/Project. Vibrant tones (electric fuchsia, lime, and other bold shades) inject energy into the silhouettes.

Denim and leather, Diesel’s fundamental materials, are treated with renewed inventiveness. The former appears in recycled satin, laser-distressed from within to produce almost X-ray-like effects. The latter is rough, raw, and tactile, retaining its primal edge. Both fabrics anchor the brand’s identity while coexisting with sleeker tailoring and refined shapes. Chunky-soled boots inject a streetwise toughness, grounding the collection in Diesel’s rebellious DNA.

Evolving with radical reinterpretation, the outcome is a more nuanced Diesel: sophisticated, experimental, but firmly rooted in urban reality. Martens steers the label toward elegance without abandoning its mischievous spirit. In this playful challenge, Diesel doesn’t just crack the egg; it turns it into a stage and a manifesto.

Have a look at the Diesel Spring/Summer 2026 collection below: