Is the Allianz Cloud Arena in Milan the new official venue of Diesel? At the moment it cannot be confirmed, but what can be said is that for the second time, it has been the place chosen by the Italian fashion brand, creatively directed by Belgian designer Glenn Martens, to hold its corresponding fashion week show.
Nowadays, this type of event has been elevated to the category of experience, and the company belonging to the OTB group is one of those that best defends this concept, as each occasion on which they present a collection becomes a memorable moment, due to everything that surrounds it and especially for its set. On this particular edition, unlike the previous one, colour predominated, and this was represented through the graffiti installation of more than three kilometres of canvas, carried out by a worldwide street art collective made up of some 7,000 amateur and expert graffiti artists. Of this backstage, Martens commented: “I love that thousands of people around the world have worked together to create the set design. We gave the global street art collective complete creative freedom – they expressed themselves each in their way, on a project that’s taken months to achieves. This is the true democracy of Diesel”.
Clearly, there is a democracy rather than a republic at Diesel, and the language they generally use to communicate from it, in terms of fashion, is denim, reimagined to satiety, taken to pop and artisanal scenarios, playing with archetypes and subverting traditions; tailoring, cut raw and unadorned, and tailored in bonded neoprene; and houndstooth jacquard prints, woven as if they were layers and deconstructed. This effect is perfectly recognisable in the cut of the garments.
When it comes to developing the pieces, everything has become more complex, as can be understood by describing them, and to further reinforce this point, there are the bouclé coats that have been battered to form balls, the shirts printed in lycra, the low-cut, low-cut jeans, or the jackets and shirts in boiled leather with extreme three-dimensionality.
Rounding out the clothing offerings are the two unisex bags that debuted on the runway, the Flag-D slouchy bag – notable for its wide strap and faux pony logo – and the oval-shaped Load D, featuring two Diesel D’s at either end; the chunky-soled ankle boots and worn-out duck-duck sneakers; the Liquifie-D sunglasses, with sinuous but chunky frames in sticky shades; and the D-Curve, Wrap-D, and D-Rush watches, which, like the bags, are new models.
Have a look at the Diesel Fall/Winter 2025 collection below:
