“You have to see the new BURBERRY Spring collection!” Messages like this arrived in our inbox this morning to let us know that the British fashion house par excellence had unveiled its new proposal, designed by its current creative director Daniel Lee, also British by the way.
Riccardo Tisci did his job very well and that is something indisputable, and to which the brand is very grateful, given that he made it famous during the time he was there, but Mr. Lee is indeed interpreting and understanding the brand’s codes better, given that as a Brit, he has grown up with the brand very present and knows the spirit of it perfectly and the connection it has with the country of origin of both of them.
From the moment Daniel took the helm of the house, it has been very clear that the direction it is taking is very different to that of recent years, as for a time the brand was very focused on streetwear and everything that urban fashion entails. Nowadays, there is little left of that link with the aforementioned fashion style, since as can be seen in the latest works presented, what is being given importance is the brand’s heritage and its iconic check print.
Who doesn’t know about Burberry’s checks? We’d venture to say very few, given that they’ve been around the world. The checks in question, beloved by many, are the fashion house’s biggest trademark and something that its previous creative directors have held in high regard and hardly dared to touch. But it seems the time has come to play with them. D.L. has been the first to reimagine the classic check print, distorting it a little, and fusing it with Prince of Wales jacquards. This has been seen in a wide selection of garments ranging from Saville Row-inspired trench coats or suits (with peak lapels and hourglass waists) and trousers to shirts and trousers.
Hats have always been closely associated with the countryside, and are a must-have accessory in every Brit’s wardrobe, and in every British company’s range. Can you imagine a day in the country without a hat? A Brit would say no, and we’d bet anything that if they forgot they’d go home and wear it with a traditional knitted patterned garment, a parka coat, a field jacket, or a leather jacket with EKD (Equestrian Knight Design) detailing, which Burberry also offers. The EKD is woven into the back of garments, on the inside of hems, or with a die-cut outline on rubber boots. All garments in the range are available in sorbet, cameo, ivy, rhubarb, khaki, trench, midnight blue, black and white.
In terms of accessories and footwear, we should mention the “Shield Sling” bag, presented in crinkled leather or jacquard weave with Prince of Wales checks; the shield tote in quilted leather with embossed details by EKD; the “Muff” models in leather; and the “Peg bag”, woven with the house’s checks and with clip closure. For footwear, sneakers like the rubber-moulded “Bubble” sneakers; Creeper shoes; and Barbed wire-embellished moccasins round off the Spring looks. While for the rainy days, so prevalent in the UK, you’ll find the “Marsh” boots in transparent rubber, with visible check lining. Water is the focus of the prints and the idea of resistance and impermeability.
Check out images from the BURBERRY Spring 2024 collection below:
