The day when the Balenciaga fashion house goes unnoticed by society will be the day when it is truly finished. Some people thought that after the controversy generated by the campaign that you all know about and which is not worth remembering, but it seems that this has not been the case, given that both the firm and its creative director Demna have joined forces to rise from the ashes like a phoenix.

Such revival has taken place during Paris Fashion Week, the framework chosen to unveil the Spring/Summer 2024 collection, whose main objective is to pay homage to the craftsmanship of the garments. No more making absurd headlines because of the Kardashians or occupying the online covers of different magazines specialised in the industry. Now everything seems to be more complex.

A theatrical stage lined with red velvet accompanied the reflection just expressed, and many friends, colleagues, and even family members, such as the designer’s mother, who was in charge of opening the show, came to the stage. A gesture of affection quite appreciated by the Georgian, but not without controversy, since his brother Guram criticised the fact that he had not been invited to the event to witness the moment. Is the battle of egos still present? Unfortunately yes, and in this case, it seems that Demna has won the battle, as once again the brand revolves around his world and the identities that make up his community.

BFRND was commissioned to compose the soundtrack, which explores a sound couture premise and is made up of three sonic elements: orchestra, piano, and electronica; and a voiceover by Isabelle Huppert reciting the instructions for making a bespoke jacket from the La Veste Tailleur Homme manual, reformatted for the show’s invitation brochure.

Demna’s Balenciaga doesn’t usually stand out for the creativity or fantasy of the garments but for the tailoring behind every one of them, based on the company’s techniques and attitudes. The 2D effect has its place in the work to create a flat, straight shoulder without pads; the cuts are wide; pleats are added; and the clothes are made in British wool with the precision of a couturier.

Regarding daywear, an indispensable part of the Maison, it is worn both at home and in public places. Yes, at home, read that right, it’s not a mistake, and proof of this are the terry dressing gowns that double as coats, versatile as the jackets with wide necklines that can be removed to be worn off the shoulders and in a carefree manner. Another interesting jacket (not detachable in this case) is made from recycled scrap leather panels.

Sustainability has finally arrived at the brand and the Kering group, which is why several innovations have been introduced. Most notably, a low-impact alternative to leather called LUNAFORMTM is used in the manufacture of floor-length bathrobes. This is the first time this material has been used in fashion and was specially designed for the brand. The fabric, which contains no animals or plastics, is made from fermented nanocellulose.

The new handbag model called “Rodeo”, characterized by its built-in open flap that gives the illusion of a classic leather carryall, the Antwerp shoppers in textured leather, a passport-like wallet with inlaid leather boarding passes complement the looks together with footwear of exaggerated proportions. Of particular note is the new limited edition “Cargo” trainer model in microfibre and mesh.

Check out the Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 collection below: