Stefano Gallici’s second collection as creative director of the Belgian fashion house Ann Demeulemeester has already seen the light of day and was presented during the latest edition of Paris Fashion Week.
The Italian is clear about what he wants, and it is not exactly to become a celebrity as others wish, but to return the firm to the place where it was a few years ago, as well as the special style that characterised it and that little by little it is recovering.
Black and white have always been the two-star colours of the house, which Gallici continues to use and has them very present in the Fall/Winter 2024 collection, but, as in the proposal with which he debuted, he has not wanted to reduce everything to those two and has added a few more, such as burgundy, khaki green, and pale pink. Everything points to the fact that a new chapter has officially begun for the fashion company founded by Ann, who sat in the front row of the show to watch Stefano’s new designs. Some people were paying attention to her reaction, and from what could be seen, she quite liked what she saw and congratulated him afterwards backstage with emotion. And no wonder, because seeing how someone successfully reimagines the house’s archives and transforms them into the most up-to-date garments is priceless.
At present, fortunately, there are few rules to follow when it comes to dress. S.G. stands for freedom and for being and behaving the way one wants to, within limits. And where can one find the freedom dreamed of? In a forest. That is where the creative enters, loses, and discovers himself, while at the same time advancing in different aspects.
Forests, during the day, are often idyllic places, but at night they change absolutely. It is at this time that different creatures appear, devised for the occasion, who seem to be taken out of a fairy tale, and move with a mysterious attitude, wearing wraparound coats or jackets with large fur collars, pleated skirts worked in detail and combined with knitwear and shirts, and suits with relaxed and strict silhouettes.
Raw and delicate is what has characterised Stefano Gallici’s latest work, feelings that have to do in part with the designer’s way of being. Check out the Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 2024 collection below:
