Ann Demeulemeester by Stefano Gallici made a strong return to the stage at Espace des Blancs Manteaux, paying homage to the exploration of emotions. The theme of Fall Winter 2025 is one of mental and physical wandering. Rugged landscapes, recollections, and a desire for clothing that seems old, utilized, and intensely personal serve as inspiration for the collection. A “Wall of References” book-zine found on each chair provided us gave us a peek into Gallici’s references.

“I like to think of myself as a traveler, and I’m jolting these thoughts in first person because the only way for me to carve….this path is to weave deeply-set feelings and dreams into what I do.” Gallici noted in his Lost and Found Thoughts, FW25.

With structured black suits and frayed shearling, layering is essential for comfort and protection. Over time, colors and fabrics change to depict transformation: white shirts turn ivory, blue denim turns brown, and clothing acquires a worn-in look. A purpose-driven uniform that highlights collarless cuts, stark black-and-white contrasts, and practical elements is highly desired. Custom sunglasses that are a part of an impending partnership with Ray-Ban are teased in the collection. The classic Aviator style is available in black, silver, and ivory in an enlarged form with a beaded chain. It appears that Gallici has found his vision at Demeulemeester.

Check it out below: