Victor Li Fall/Winter 2019
by Malcolm Thomas
Victor Li is above the fashion circus. Tucked away in an Asian oasis, complete with waterfalls, foliage, and airy architecture, the Chinese-American designer presented a chic sophomore collection nestled smack dab between diplomacy and culture. Much like the brand itself, Li’s venue, the Japan Society, was enraptured in global airs and approachability; beauty and familiarity. Adjectives more easily said then sewn in todays seam-bursting luxury market. But from summer to winter it’s become increasingly clear that unlike his counterparts he has vision. Even down to the waiter-ready platters of multicolored marsh mellow bunny bites and basil infused spirits that complimented a collection that was as colorful as it was refreshing.
“There’s nothing loud here – we’ve strived for design that’s handsome and timeless while giving our guy sophisticated details and function,” Li said of his collection. Slate blue kimono suits, embroidered blanket jackets, and a taupe shearling flight jacket, were just a few of the offerings on the Fall/Winter menu. He also expanded into bags. A risqué move for a brand still in its infancy. But further proof of not only Li’s design prowess but his business acumen. Lessons only the son of a prominent Chinese entrepreneur would explore so early on.
Inspired by a trip to Hokkaido, Japan, Li interpreted his rough ink drawings and sketches of snowy landscapes and plush forests to clothes that were not only incredibly beautiful and exciting in design and texture, think cashmere track pants and oak suede club jackets, but most alluring of all, fully functional. Much like Victor’s sister brand, Claudia Li, a brand built on the foundations of years of experience at J.W. Anderson and the Haus of Gaga.
One look at Victor Li and it is clear to see how the young designer will soon become the unsung hero of a new age in American menswear.
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