“We just wanted to wake everyone up,” said Oliver Spencer back stage after his Fall/Winter 2015 show at the Old Sorting Office. And he did, by inviting The Turbans – an international musical collective – to be the live act of the show. “It has to be more than just a show,” he explained.
This season, Spencer’s collection progressed from a more playful and colourful approach – which we experienced for the last few seasons – to a more modern and cleaner look. “I guess we are trying to be more serious,” he joked. “But really, it is just the way I am feeling at the moment. We are trying to fill the gap between luxury and contemporary fashion.”
Even though his collections are always the more wearable and less conceptual on the London Collections: Men schedule, he made sure leave the audience with some unique and not seen before aspects. Mostly through unexpected layering – which worked really really well – and having the most diverse casting so far. “I am glad you noticed,” he said. “I am not a big fan of models. I like seeing my mates and ‘normal’ people wearing my clothes.”
They were all coming down the runway in amazing bomber jackets, double-breasted coats and over-sized roll necks. The key materials were the soft alpaca and recycled cashmere that were really important for Spencer this season.
This season’s colour palette was dominated by greys. However, there was still a place for Spencer’s colourful past, by including bright colour details and a gorgeous floral print. “Someone in my team found it. Sometimes you just get things delivered on a silver platter, you know.”
He makes it sound all so easy, but in fact filling that gap between luxury and contemporary fashion is not easy at all. With his Fall/Winter 2015 ensembles he most definitely made a great start, to say the least.
In a second collaboration with American art photographer Duane Michals, the collection takes centre stage at Casa Gallardo, a private home in Madrid, as eleven male protagonists perform in various states of dress (and undress).
For Spring/Summer 2019, AMBUSH has created a collection in natural materials – cottons, wools and linens that clothe the body like soft sculpture-like forms.
Y/Project takes their SS19 men’s show to the gardens of la Faculté de Pharmacie de Paris where delicate roses grow next to oleander, mandrake, and neurotoxic plants.
From Ermenegildo Zegna Couture’s Ars Technica and Donatella’s Code of Sexiness to Prada’s quest of subversion, Francesco Risso’s vintage sport-luxe for Marni and more.
Virgil Abloh presented showed his Spring/Summer 2019 collection for Off-White during Paris Fashion Week at Théâtre National de Chaillot in Trocadéro the day before his much-hyped debut at Louis Vuitton.
If you were at Sonar, you may remember some things more than us. You already know, party. But if something we can’t forget about this 25th anniversary of the Sonar Festival (in addition to the performances of Sophie, »
Nicola Indelicato SS19 collection finds its first inspiration from the 1953 William Wyler’s movie “Vacanze Romane”. The designer revivals the scenario through the story of a young boy.
LOEWE has presented its Spring/Summer 2019 ad campaign ahead of time, during Paris Fashion Week Men’s. From today three images of the campaign will be displayed in hundreds of newspaper kiosks and walls around… »
