“We just wanted to wake everyone up,” said Oliver Spencer back stage after his Fall/Winter 2015 show at the Old Sorting Office. And he did, by inviting The Turbans – an international musical collective – to be the live act of the show. “It has to be more than just a show,” he explained.
This season, Spencer’s collection progressed from a more playful and colourful approach – which we experienced for the last few seasons – to a more modern and cleaner look. “I guess we are trying to be more serious,” he joked. “But really, it is just the way I am feeling at the moment. We are trying to fill the gap between luxury and contemporary fashion.”
Even though his collections are always the more wearable and less conceptual on the London Collections: Men schedule, he made sure leave the audience with some unique and not seen before aspects. Mostly through unexpected layering – which worked really really well – and having the most diverse casting so far. “I am glad you noticed,” he said. “I am not a big fan of models. I like seeing my mates and ‘normal’ people wearing my clothes.”
They were all coming down the runway in amazing bomber jackets, double-breasted coats and over-sized roll necks. The key materials were the soft alpaca and recycled cashmere that were really important for Spencer this season.
This season’s colour palette was dominated by greys. However, there was still a place for Spencer’s colourful past, by including bright colour details and a gorgeous floral print. “Someone in my team found it. Sometimes you just get things delivered on a silver platter, you know.”
He makes it sound all so easy, but in fact filling that gap between luxury and contemporary fashion is not easy at all. With his Fall/Winter 2015 ensembles he most definitely made a great start, to say the least.
For the Spring/Summer 2021 collection designer Shangguan Zhe draws inspiration from diverse ethnic cultures while retaining the signatures style of SANKUANZ.
After these months of introspection, the brand wants to embody, more than ever, this new guard of international conscious labels who focuses on an artisanal and locally made luxury.
Palomo Spain pays tribute to the splendor of the Haute Couture in the 50s and 60s and its great Parisian houses, as a result of the reflection carried out during the industry break.
For Spring/Summer 2021 PHIPPS takes a cold, hard look at American history – peering through the unforgiving lens of social and political turmoil that has marked the year that was.
By offering an entirely 360° designed show, COOL TM, a young emerging brand, offers a creative solution to the problems encountered by the fashion industry which has to reinvent itself digitally.
Celebrating its 30th year as China’s leader of sport and athletic innovation, Li-Ning presents “Game On”, a short film that bridges past and future, compiling historic brand moments with a glimpse at new footwear and apparel to come for the Spring/Summer 2021 season.
For the beginning of 2021, Berluti adapts to the challenges of our moment in time in a long-distance collaboration with the ceramic artist Brian Rochefort for its first creative collaboration on ready-to-wear.
In lieu of the traditional fashion show format, Virgil Abloh has instead imagined a virtual and literal voyage across the world to present his new collection “Message in a Bottle”.
Matt and Will Ritson started creating music after an impulsive trip to a lone church in the Mojave Desert in 2019 capturing the surreal landscape of Beatty, Nevada.
Hollywood actor and amateur skateboarder, Jack Dylan Grazer fronts our Spring/Summer 2020 Olympic Issue shot by Kapturing in 2028 Olympic host city of Los Angeles. While 16-year-old Grazer empowers kids to go out and claim their own piece to skate on, the Olympics can also connect to fond childhood memories. We also look at it for inspiration and a call for togetherness.
