On occasion of FW20, Liam Hodgeshas reinforced the codes of streetwear, through a pretty heavy bold intake of shapes and details: Outerwear, trousers, and shirts are being repurposed for a dashing, future-free of facetiousness. Familiar figures and foreign practices mark Liam Hodges AW20, moving him into a recognizable alien landscape of elements that explore the powerful realm of implementation and exploit an all-round shift in creativity.
Past labels are upcycled, as former conceits are broken down, ego is diluted and eco-anxiety grows. T-shirts propositions reflect the dichotomy of dilution in making and morals; on the other side, trousers are constructed from panels of repurposed fabrications of previous processes, while bucket hats are imagined in recycled yarn and unwanted vintage t-shirts.
Graphic and text vacillate between eras and landscapes: Shakespearean and retro-futuristic at the same time, quotes are emblazoned on hoodies and other propositions, eager to spark an interest in young and old demographics. Barcelona-based brand Nukak and Liam Hodges come together for their first partnership, crafting bags that side by side with the collection. Nukak breathes new life into the materials that were once cogs in the machine of desolation.
For the men’s Summer 2020 collection, Dior’s iconic “newspaper” print – first created for the Spring/Summer 2000 haute couture show – has been reworked by Kim Jones in collaboration with the contemporary artist Daniel Arsham.
This season, Orelsan and Sébastian Strappazzon drew their inspiration from “The Marathon des Sables”, a 160-mile race through the Sahara dubbed “The Toughest Footrace on Earth”, where participating athletes endure a six-day trek.
London’s University of Westminster hosted its third BA show during London Fashion Week, under the leadership of Professor Andrew Groves who radically rethinks the purposefulness of fashion education, delivering a collective catwalk show aligned with the fashion calendar.
Derived from the constant tension between Western imposition and traditional African idols explored in Chinua Achebe’s writings, “Underground Spiritual” keys on the clash between traditional and non-traditional culture that reached a crescendo during the 1960s and 70s.
For FW20, the 3.1 Phillip Lim essential wardrobe is streamlined and strengthened, with styling elements that casually disrupt the modern wardrobe, revisiting the brand’s core New York heritage.
As photographer Pasquale Autorino toys with perspective and composition, he captures the dichotomy between balance and equilibrium of the collective in this Fucking Young!’s group editorial.
