GORI DE PALMA 1% COLLECTION AW/2011.12
by Eduardo G.
Last collection by Gori de Palma for fall-winter 2011-2012. Photography by Cristian Di Stefano.
“1%” es una propuesta del diseñador Gori de Palma, para su ultima colección AW11/ 12 que reflexiona sobre la importancia de los valores estéticos en los grupos disidentes. Pretende ser un estudio sociológico sobre dichas minorías, sobre esas manifestaciones del gusto que no tienen ninguna continuidad histórica, ya que no surgen de ningún estilo anterior ni tampoco se desarrollan a partir de el, ni tan siquiera forman parte de ningún proceso social regulador. La moda esta representada en nuestros tiempos por el proceso y la expresión del gusto colectivo. Pero la moda no solo se transmite a través de los grupos colectivos y la manipulación consumista, sino que son los grupos disidentes, los que efectivamente crean la moda, porque su mensaje se mantiene siempre en el contexto de la no adhesión.
La construcción e inspiración de este proyecto gira alrededor de la cultura “Rider”, surgida en 1947 a raíz de cierta alarma social por unos altercados provocados por motoristas en una concentración. La A.M.A ( American Motorcycle Asociation ) intento explicar que solamente el 1% de los motoristas que acudieron, provocaron los altercados. Ahí nació el mito del 1%, de las bandas fuera de la ley.
“1%” también es una reflexión sobre el choque entre dos mentalidades opuestas, la mentalidad conservadora y tradicional de una sociedad inmersa en la Guerra Fría, frente a la mentalidad insurrecta y contestataria de una generación de jóvenes que se niegan a formar parte de ese mundo aletargado y optan por un estilo de vida marginal y alternativo al de una sociedad a la que ven como su enemigo. Pero el 1% es mucho mas que eso, supone la pertenencia a una minoría, ensalza un especial sentido de diversión y libertad, de camaradería, de solidaridad y de insumisión. Representa un símbolo de libertad.
Un análisis exhaustivo del vestuario que forma la identidad de este sector marginal, desde la visión de las primeras bandas de motoristas surgidas en los 50’ como “Hells Angels”, y otras mas recientes en los 80’s , los denominados “The Mean Fuckers”. Un análisis antropológico, por su anocrismo y excentricidad, por su rareza y exotismo. Una colección donde predomina el negro, el cuero, el algodón impermeabilizado y repleto de simbología perteneciente a esa cultura.
TO WATCH: Video Gori de Palma 1% Collection
Credits:
Photography CRISTIAN DI STEFANO
Make·up & Hair YOSUAH BAREA
Models VICTORIA RIBOT @ UNO MODELS & YOHEI OKI
Video DANIEL FIDALGO & ANTIESTATICO
Thanks to CAFERACERDREAMS
Production SIMPLYPRORSUM
Strange Talk: Eskimo Boy
Lukas Grout by Hedi Slimane
The book challenges narrow ideas of beauty and masculinity by simply letting men exist, unpolished and unapologetic, across generations.
The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao has opened the Barbara Kruger exhibition, Another day. Another night., curated by Lekha Hileman Waitoller and sponsored by Occident. This exhibition expands her audience and influence while pushing the limits of modern art… »
Forget ironed polos and pristine blazers. Peter Wu’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection is a tribute to the thrifted sweaters, the cut-off Dickies, the flannel pajama pants worn to early morning lectures.
Amsterdam’s Daily Paper has teamed up with Oakley to reimagine the Gascan sunglasses, combining streetwear storytelling with technical innovation.
Berlin’s KitKat Club became the perfect runway for #DAMUR’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, “Get Wet.”
COLRS unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection “JUMPING FENCES” during Berlin Fashion Week, bottling the reckless energy of a Brazilian summer.
On July 1st at Berlin’s old Tempelhof Airport, BALLETSHOFER staged a runway show that challenged how we dress for travel.
At Berlin Fashion Week, Andrej Gronau presented its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Alpine Fiction.
At Berlin Fashion Week, Orange Culture unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, “In the Shadows.”
Berlin Fashion Week served as the stage for SF1OG’s SS26 collection, a deeply personal examination of love’s darker edges, obsession, fragility, and emotional unraveling.
Lenny aka Futura 2000, took the time to speak with us ahead of the exclusive launch.
This summer, Ludovic de Saint Sernin revisits Fire Island to relaunch its swim line with a campaign steeped in erotic freedom and community reverence.
Chitose Abe remains one of the most avant-garde voices of her generation, capable of injecting freshness, desire, and direction into a fashion that needs it more than ever.
K-Way’s new men’s summer collection focuses on keeping things cool, comfortable, and practical.
PUMA and JJJJound have done it again. Their latest collaboration takes the spiked silhouette of the 1999 PUMA Mostro and strips it down to its essentials.
This Pride month, The Barcelona EDITION isn’t just waving a flag—it’s becoming one. From graphic art explosions to drag royalty brunches, the hotel pulses with a raw, vivid celebration of queer creativity, inclusion, and unfiltered joy.
At Galerie Sultana, Gardouch presented its second collection, Playing Pretend, not as mere clothing but as objects that hold fragments of memory.
Zico steps into the brand’s world as part of its ongoing mission to connect with cultural leaders across fashion, music, and art.
The “White” Pack reimagines Skepta’s signature Skope Forever sneaker in an arctic palette.
The question hangs heavy in the air: How do we keep making clothes when the world burns?
Haderlump’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection breathes new life into Ex Libris, translating these historical markers into wearable narratives.
Francesco Risso joined forces with artists Olaolu Slawn and Soldier Boyfriend for something raw, immediate, and deeply personal.
For Spring/Summer 2026, David Koma presented I LOVE DAVID at Berlin Fashion Week, a menswear collection that balances humor with depth.
SLⱯY, unveiled during Berlin Fashion Week, takes the ancient tale of Saint George and the Dragon and flips it into a meditation on modern battles.
Change isn’t always about moving forward, but sometimes, it’s about holding on. For their Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Milieuschutz, Richert Beil explores exactly that tension.
Inspired by the hidden love stories of novels like Maurice, Swimming in the Dark, and Young Mungo, the collection moves through three emotional stages of queer coming-of-age: concealment, self-acceptance, and the bittersweet weight of memory.
Through its new CGI campaign, “Beyond Real, Beyond Now,” and a community-driven approach, REVERSIBLE is bridging the gap between inspiration and accessibility.
Eugenio Elverdin photographed by Lucas Ricci and styled by Gaston Olmos, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
There’s a particular kind of freedom that comes with movement, and AMBUSH’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, “Tribe on the Move,” captures that feeling.
Louis Vuitton’s latest travel campaign takes viewers on a visual journey through China, reimagining travel as an experience rather than just a destination.
