From being a fashion incompetent person to turning into a trendoid, it’s a short step- in other words DalaiLama can easily turn into BryanBoy!-. We live in a world where even an unstylish pipsqueakmight become ‘the belle of the ball’ with the ‘perfect’ styling that- often- is the wrong one. The word moderation is a typo of fashion- be careful generalizing, you may say- or, pardon me, it’s been like this since being overexeedingly dressed is the last thing.
In the case of Ennio Capasa, you can’t convert a soul so deeply entrenched in the 90’s minimalism- but, most importantly, you can’t convert a man who cut his teeth assisting Yamamoto-. However, minimalism has its wildside, too. Witha limited palette- imagine Mark Rothko’s N.61 rust and blue and Ellsworth Kelly’s Blue, Green, Red which are both part of Costume’s AW16 colour scheme- Capasa builds a collection so sophisticated that really packs a punch! Rock is linchpin of Costume National: urban warriors walk down with skinny trousers, squared shoulder jackets, shiny velvet blouses and waistcoats worn on bare skin- damn, that really rocks!-.
This time to experiment is important to assert the centrality of fashion- declared Capasa- but, if those glitter prints on velvet, fil coupè on nylon and three-dimensional embroideries have to do with Ennio’s experimental procedure, I admit that all this experimentation has brought about sensational results. The man behind Costume National is a ‘beautiful mind’ who’s often unfairly unappreciated but, please, let me be brutally honest: Ennio Capasa’s pure aesthetic is so significant that it is more than capable of kicking our trendy asses without missing a beat.
For the men’s Summer 2020 collection, Dior’s iconic “newspaper” print – first created for the Spring/Summer 2000 haute couture show – has been reworked by Kim Jones in collaboration with the contemporary artist Daniel Arsham.
This season, Orelsan and Sébastian Strappazzon drew their inspiration from “The Marathon des Sables”, a 160-mile race through the Sahara dubbed “The Toughest Footrace on Earth”, where participating athletes endure a six-day trek.
London’s University of Westminster hosted its third BA show during London Fashion Week, under the leadership of Professor Andrew Groves who radically rethinks the purposefulness of fashion education, delivering a collective catwalk show aligned with the fashion calendar.
Derived from the constant tension between Western imposition and traditional African idols explored in Chinua Achebe’s writings, “Underground Spiritual” keys on the clash between traditional and non-traditional culture that reached a crescendo during the 1960s and 70s.
For FW20, the 3.1 Phillip Lim essential wardrobe is streamlined and strengthened, with styling elements that casually disrupt the modern wardrobe, revisiting the brand’s core New York heritage.
As photographer Pasquale Autorino toys with perspective and composition, he captures the dichotomy between balance and equilibrium of the collective in this Fucking Young!’s group editorial.
