Lou Dalton created a militaristic Fall/Winter 2012 collection featuring vintage inspired caps and stone washed denim. »
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Martine Rose Fall/Winter 2012
Martine Rose‘s Fall/Winter 2012 collection seemed inspired by the 1990s hip hop style, featured a mix of urbane elements alongside preppy elements. »
McQ Fall/Winter 2012
Fall 2012 looks combat green in the eyes of Sarah Burton, appointed creative director at McQ since Alexander’s passing away. The diffusion line takes the stage for the first time, bringing WWII military finery through and through. Leather globes, wool coats, trench coats, and army combat boots. The inspiration seems a bit passé… However, it was the perfect excuse to execute uncluttered tailoring and bring it to the spotlight. What reminds me Inglourious Basterds, Michael Fassbender… and his snub at the Oscars! –Just saying. »
Central Saint Martins MA Fall/Winter 2012 – Craig Green
Craig Green’s Saint Martins MA F/W 1 collection looks east for inspiration. Turkish Whirling Dervishes come to mind, going round and about. Clean cut Turkish abayas for men. Long niqāb and taqiyah caps are in full bloom too. Even so, the total look is austere. Exoticism is nowhere to be seen –black and white predominate the color palette. These men walk the urban landscape, backpackers of the future coupling East with West. »
Central Saint Martins MA Fall/Winter 2012 – Kenji Kawasumi
If there is something to highlight in Kenji Kawasumi‘s Central Saint Martins’ MA F/W 12 collection is the experimentation with thick wools and felts. A creamy pastiche of puffy coats and garments, heavy pants for winter that look like warm-y melted packing-peanuts. It’s not the first time that the Japanese designer explores new ways of working with textiles though. He did so on his BA collection, using laser cut fabrics and mixing knit with clear acrylic. An approach to fashion that goes hand in hand with textile research. Now that body silhouettes seem to have been all done and designed, fabrics become the next lab for avant-garde; something Japanese artists are very well known for (Miyake, anyone?). »
Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2012
Marc Jacobs‘ diffusion line offered military-inspired clothes. The somber collection featured strong outerwear pieces, chic topcoats, tailored pants and clunky flat boots. »
Jeremy Scott Fall/Winter 2012
Jeremy Scott created a fun and colorful Fall/Winter 2012 collection featuring Juicy Fruit stripes, smiley faces and Bart Simpson. Psychedelic prints were seen on virtually every garment from sweaters to pants to footwear. Scott also featured luxurious fur-line outerwear. »
Marlon Gobel Fall/Winter 2012
Marlon Gobel’s inspirations for his Fall/Winter 2012 collection were many and assorted. On a first glance, a futuristic approach to the youth’s decade, the 50’s, came to mind. Football-inspired super heroes dressed in Swarovski crystal armor shared the catwalk with cutting-edge detectives in quirky, textured puffy suits. Lumberjacks and preppy high-scholars were depicted too. The New York based designer sure fancied a good clean-cut silhouette, all men dressed in straight pants and waist-length tops. »
Siki Im Fall/Winter 2012
The work of German designer Siki Im is characterized for its dark and obscure sources of inspiration. If you remember the video Isolation/Integration by Robert Hamada featuring Im’s SS11 pieces, you know what I’m talking about.
His Fall/Winter 2012 collection was shown in a prep-school gymnasium on the Meat Packing District, headquarter of heroin addicts and whores during the 90’s (you see, walking on the wild side). Speaking of 90’s, the influence of the German rave scene and the work of a very German designer, Jil Sander, is appreciable on the straight cut of the garments and the attention given to details and fabrics. However, the influence doesn’t overtake the collection and it’s just one of many interpretations. One thing is sure, his men are polished, layered, and fashion-conscious. »
Robert Geller Fall/Winter 2012
Robert Geller looked to nature as part of his inspiration for his Fall/Winter 2012 collection, featuring beautiful textures and playing with proportion. »
LAITINEN Fall/Winter 2012
Laitinen Fall/Winter 2012 collection merges inspirations ranging from functional sportswear to military references and 1990s club culture to private school uniforms. When Combined in an outfit these elements create a look of a rebellious student mixing his college blazer, pressed trousers or a formal coat with swetshirts and jeans from a previous night out. »
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