Boramy Viguier presented his Fall/Winter 2020 collection in historical Paris stock exchange drawing comparisons of banks being the temples of today. “I looked on finance, banking, trading style references. The opposite of what I’m naturally drawn to. The multicolour pin stripes shirts, the ties, the jewels, … a pretty heterogeneous wardrobe but obviously so codified, standardised, almost militarized. That’s the paradox I liked.”
The World of finance is a universe that triggers so much passion. It runs everybody’s life. We hate it because we feel we are under control of our bank loan of our house, of our car, of our studies, it is a very complex discipline that we have a hard time to comprehend. Yet it is also very attractive. Financial scandals and careers are fascinating and horrific at the same time. A perverse attraction, an evil attraction. I like to think that the devil is in a sharp suit, a straight tie, a nice cut, with fine jewels…”
This season also saw strides to introduce more sustainability into the label by including new one-off hand-painted pieces that he customized as well as deadstock shirting. The Italian heritage “5 Fingers” rubber shoe brand Vibran also collaborated this season bringing something more organic and outdoorsy to balance the austere and severe finance references. “I wanted to treat them very harshly, vandalize them in order to create an apocalyptic feeling to the footwear. To oppose it with “cleaner” clothing. And also each piece has its own human touch, with its own “mistakes”. I love that.
For the men’s Summer 2020 collection, Dior’s iconic “newspaper” print – first created for the Spring/Summer 2000 haute couture show – has been reworked by Kim Jones in collaboration with the contemporary artist Daniel Arsham.
This season, Orelsan and Sébastian Strappazzon drew their inspiration from “The Marathon des Sables”, a 160-mile race through the Sahara dubbed “The Toughest Footrace on Earth”, where participating athletes endure a six-day trek.
London’s University of Westminster hosted its third BA show during London Fashion Week, under the leadership of Professor Andrew Groves who radically rethinks the purposefulness of fashion education, delivering a collective catwalk show aligned with the fashion calendar.
Derived from the constant tension between Western imposition and traditional African idols explored in Chinua Achebe’s writings, “Underground Spiritual” keys on the clash between traditional and non-traditional culture that reached a crescendo during the 1960s and 70s.
For FW20, the 3.1 Phillip Lim essential wardrobe is streamlined and strengthened, with styling elements that casually disrupt the modern wardrobe, revisiting the brand’s core New York heritage.
As photographer Pasquale Autorino toys with perspective and composition, he captures the dichotomy between balance and equilibrium of the collective in this Fucking Young!’s group editorial.
