Y/PROJECT Fall/Winter 2016
by Anna Barr
Since joining Y/Project, for Fall 2016 we see Belgium designer Glenn Martens give a more personal spin on things as the label has evolved under his guidance the past two years where urban and strong tailor merge. Tucked away in the iconic music venue Gibus the scene was already set as thrasher metal mixed with Sergei Prokofiev for a dramatic opening.
With a distinct mix of high wasted denim in elongated lengths giving a sensual twist and fetish references it made a visual feast of textures, tones, and shapes. Masculine tailor was deconstructed and adorned with asymmetric zips as structural lines were unpredictable. Black was surprisingly minimal opting instead for dark forest green, greys, and the on trend of the season color: brownish hues. There is an overall re- imagined feel for the mid-nineties from the near future.
The collection evokes an individual audacity allowing the wearer to truly express their personality as seen from styling that ranged from socks with heels or sandals, clinching belts, reinterpreted leg chaps, crushed velvet and an array of vintage-like leathers. Matrix length coats appeared in nearly every three looks. It may be Men’s Week in Paris, but the collection could easily go either way. There was also a peak at some of the women’s pieces where bad girls get a feminine twist.
Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2016
Our Legacy Fall/Winter 2016
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