XANDER ZHOU’s Fragmented Formality
by Adriano Batista
In the sixth chapter of his PRO line, Xander Zhou turns his attention to the suit. The collection, titled “Fragmented Formality,” explores what happens when the classic system of menswear begins to break down. It disassembles and duplicates, creating a new kind of order from its own collapse.
This season also introduces a new calendar. The collection is marked SSAW, removing the traditional separation between spring/summer and autumn/winter. It becomes a year-round continuum, focusing less on the season and more on the context and character of the wearer.
The clothes themselves feel like a system error. Pinstriped suits are scaled up or duplicated. Shirts overlap like stacked digital files. Masks create a recursive, mirrored effect. Shirts, ties, and briefcases appear as mis-loaded elements, as if social identity itself has glitched.
The materials are classic but used in new ways. Multiple panels are layered, creating tension between drape and structure. Stripes are multiplied until they distort. This is not a joke. It is a serious inquiry into how power and order might look in a future world. There are no technological gadgets here. The futuristic feeling is built entirely through tailoring and craft. The show’s setting is deliberately plain: a beige carpet, standard blue chairs, a conference room from a near future. The models’ faces are hidden by abstract masks.
If past collections looked to astronauts and cosmic systems, this one looks at a parallel version of our own world. Here, the suit is the default interface assigned by a system. The recursive tailoring and extended accessories make people look like social identities stuck in an infinite loading loop.
The collection does not offer an answer. Instead, it asks a question: as social order becomes more dependent on algorithms, will humans become extensions of these structures? Will the suit become the uniform of artificial intelligence? Before that happens, these fragmented and repeating forms serve as a reminder. We can only understand our place within a system when that system begins to repeat itself.
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