Paris, both subterranean and radiant, pulsed once again to the rhythm of techno. Inside an industrial venue that felt more like a car park lit by flickering strobes than a conventional catwalk, VETEMENTS — the Swiss fashion house creatively directed by Guram Gvasalia — reaffirmed that its narrative rejects subtlety and convention alike. The show, infused with brutalist aesthetics and club energy, stood as a manifesto: fashion as a living language, where noise, contradiction, and irony coexist as creative forces.
On the runway (transformed into a contained rave) appeared a stellar cast: Cara Delevingne, Anok Yai, and rapper Yeat, among other familiar faces of the label. Each embodied that delicate tension between underground cool and luxury polish that has defined the brand’s DNA since its inception.
In this world, nothing is as it seems. The literal becomes deceptive. A pair of jeans traditional at the front morphs into transparent plastic panels at the back, revealing underwear — a flawless metaphor for modern duality: the interplay between artifice and sincerity, between desire and exposure.
Yet amid the deliberate chaos, the collection revealed an unexpected wearability. Tank tops, XS polos, and cargo trousers intertwined with chunky-soled boots and bomber jackets, proposing a pragmatic elegance that reimagines workwear as an act of aesthetic defiance. Industrial garments turned into statements of intent, and sweat became a symbol of genuineness.
Departing from previous seasons, the VETEMENTS man for Spring/Summer loosens up. Tailoring, once a playground for exaggeration, now appears in fleeting touches, almost like a faint echo. The silhouette feels more relaxed, more uninhibited, less obsessed with construction, and increasingly focused on attitude and gesture. Perhaps, as with all summer rebellions, it’s an invitation to unbutton the corset of formality.
In the end, VETEMENTS reasserts its place as fashion’s most necessary disruptor. A distorted mirror reflecting, with surgical precision, the mood of the moment: fragmented, hybrid, confrontational, and disarmingly authentic.
Check out below the collection captured at VETEMENTS’ backstage, captured by Rita Castel-Branco, in exclusive for Fucking Young!:
