University of Westminster BA 2024 Graduate Show
by Alexandra Dimitriievych
The University of Westminster BA fashion course under the directorship of Rosie Wallin had its graduate show this Friday at industrial Ambika P3 space. Menswear graduates showcased their various and impressive technical skills and diverse creative concepts drawing inspiration from a wide range of locations and eras like the resilient Caribbean spirit, the salarymen of Tokyo, the 90s in former Yugoslavia, the Italian stereotypes, and the architecture of Hong Kong.
Lydiah Holder in the “Honouring Melrose” collection paid homage to the comfort of the beloved grandmother’s home by incorporating bold statement wallpapers as graphic prints into the cosy looks referencing styles discovered in the old family photographs. A bright palette of camel, teal, plum, and purple was used to celebrate the resilient Carribean spirit and its impact on British culture.
Rachael Tyler in the “Salarymen” collection has challenged conventional business wear. Inspired by photos of disheveled salarymen of Tokyo by Pawel Jaszczuk the designer combines skewed neckties, the 80s exaggerated shoulders with exposed underwear, and sock garters.
In the “Ode to Italy” Paolo Iacobucci explores Italian stereotypes like pasta, the Mafioso, sipping wine in Positano, cycling jerseys, and Nonna’s house. Vibrant colours, child-like crayon prints, and a red satin shirt with appliqued 3D roses are a cheeky statement of the results of Paolo’s exploration.
Mila Nikcevic in the “Belgrade Boys” collection showcases the peculiarities of the early 90s style of former Yugoslavia. Colorful tracksuits are combined with formal wear to reflect the city’s street style, pixellated print is a nod to decorative tiles from the old church buildings and masculine silhouettes have humorous details like double knee-high socks or print of the dog.
Tom Rowe’s “Beside the Seaside” collection is inspired by personal memories of the designer and the 70s photos of the family holidays at the Isle of White. Twisted pieces reflect the vagaries of British weather and the memories of “carrying too much stuff” to the beach led to the design of a unique “smock” that incorporates backpack details. Stand-out jeans are re-created from old garments and echo the spiral of a favorite ‘Helter-Skelter’ ride.
Tak Fung’s “Night Shift” collection is an inventive experiment in menswear uniforms. Looks inspired by Hong Kong architecture are also a tribute to the bus driver uniforms of Tak’s father. Deconstructed shirts with additional sleeves and layered and complex silhouettes were combined with satin inserts as a nod to bus seat covers and red light sequins to create an innovative collection.
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