At 080 Barcelona Fashion, RUBEARTH stands out with THE GREEN FLASH THEORY—a collection that dismantles surfwear’s sun-bleached clichés and replaces them with something darker, sharper, and politically charged.
Designer Gabriel Nogueiras doesn’t just reinterpret waves and light; he weaponizes them. Inspired by the eerie 1980s B-movie Nazi Surfers, the collection critiques the far-right’s infiltration of subcultures that once symbolized freedom. Nocturnal prints replace neon hues, spectral textures mimic fractured light underwater, and the brand’s signature preppy-surf hybrid aesthetic gets a dystopian twist.
But RUBEARTH’s innovation isn’t just thematic. Pushing beyond “circularity” (a term he dismisses as “old school”), the label experiments with sensitive robotics in collaboration with artist Mónica Rikic—placing it among just three global brands fusing craft with interactive tech.
Fresh off two Mercedes-Benz Fashion Talent wins and a spotlight in Barcelona Fashion Forward, RUBEARTH balances market-ready pieces with radical provocations. THE GREEN FLASH THEORY proves subversive ideas can be wearable—and that surfwear can carry a warning.
Read our full interview below to dive deeper into RUBEARTH’s creative process, material experiments, and why fashion’s future might just come from a garage:
THE GREEN FLASH THEORY is inspired by the boundary between dream and reality and the search for the perfect wave. How did you translate this journey into the designs and overall aesthetic of the collection?
It all stems from the idea of reinterpreting surf aesthetics through my own lens, blending the essence of the cool kid with the preppy boy.
The collection dives into the depths of the nocturnal ocean, where light fractures into spectral reflections. How did you capture this interplay of light and shadow in the fabrics, colors, and textures?
We approached the prints and fabrics from a darker perspective—something quite uncommon in the surf world, which is usually defined by bold, contrasting colors. Instead, we explored a palette and textures that evoke nocturnal tones and spectral nuances.
The spirit of surfing is tied to freedom and exploration. How does this collection reinterpret that spirit with dreamlike nuances?
Honestly, that’s not really the direction I took, haha. The collection carries a deeper social critique on how the far-right is gaining traction worldwide, even in spaces that traditionally symbolize freedom, like surfing. It all started with a B-movie called Nazi Surfers, which revolves around a group of extreme-right surfers trying to dominate the surf scene through violence and ideology.
How do you typically begin the process of transforming such abstract concepts like the convergence of day and night into wearable pieces?
I use the core concept as a guiding thread for research, which helps define the collection’s foundation—colors, prints, and structures. From there, everything is infused with the brand’s identity. At this point, Rubearth has established a clear and recognizable aesthetic, strongly tied to the preppy boy style.
Your work often explores the memory of materials and circularity. What materials did you use in this collection, and how do they reflect your commitment to sustainability and innovation?
I feel like circularity is already a given for any brand. Honestly, when I hear the term now, it even sounds a bit old school, haha. I’m currently taking it a step further by collaborating with Mónica Rikic, exploring sensitive robotics and how it interacts and evolves with the human experience.
How did technology play a role in the creation of THE GREEN FLASH THEORY?
From what I’ve researched, there are currently only three brands worldwide integrating artisanal robotics into textiles. For me, the key is to blend technology seamlessly into the artistic direction, so the garments don’t end up looking like a clunky mess of cables, haha.
You’ve won the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Talent twice. How has this recognition influenced your creative process and the growth of RUBEARTH?
It made me realize that a project that literally started in a garage could go far. It has also helped the brand gain recognition, recently being highlighted in Barcelona Fashion Forward.
What are your goals for the future of RUBEARTH, and how do you see THE GREEN FLASH THEORY contributing to that vision?
This is the most market-oriented collection we’ve created so far, without losing the essence of the brand. It also continues our commitment to collaborating with different artists to further expand Rubearth’s creative universe.
Check out below the backstage images shot by Ángela Ibañez during 080 Barcelona Fashion, in exclusive for Fucking Young!:
