Onitsuka Tiger Fall/Winter 2023
by Gabriel Córdoba Acosta
Andrea Pompilio, creative director of Onitsuka Tiger, has shown the importance of layering in Japanese culture. The act of putting on a kimono is no longer a thing of the past but is now purely present, in which garments of different weights are worn, from underwear to the piece itself. It’s a tradition, and this is practically the core of the proposal recently presented in Milan, as well as the oversized and flowing tailoring.
Merging the brand’s sporty DNA with the essence of Japanese tradition, the designer takes an important step forward, presenting a collection that maintains his active spirit and focuses on urban aesthetics. Thus, there are oversize coats in punched synthetic fur, more tailored coats in cozy melton, transparent-effect with visible quilted detailing on the back and adorned with large knitted martingales, and short, relaxed silhouettes in shawl collar design.
The mega anoraks, with their eye-catching volume, were perhaps the most eye-catching pieces on offer, perhaps because they were made in collaboration with Japanese brand Zanter, famous for its authentic products and for being a pioneer in Japan in producing domestic down-filled outerwear. Since 1956, Zanter has supplied down workwear to the Antarctic expedition and various exploration teams for over 60 years. Tradition and avant-garde rolled into one and combined these two factors with simple garments such as basic black overalls to draw attention to this piece.
In contrast to the overcoats, there are tight-fitting, almost downhill suits. In addition, instead of French terry hoodies, there is an intermingling of giant knitted turtleneck jumpers with a mohair feel, lightweight sheer quilted chiffon shirts with visible quilting (a detail also found as an embellishment on outerwear), and tank tops in a fitted, ribbed silhouette, among other things. It’s all very minimalist, as is the color palette, which ranges from black or different shades of grey to beige and orange.
Everything is designed to be worn in the city, even the footwear: leather ankle and below-the-knee ankle boots, elegant but lightweight, or trainers that evolve into an outdoor style shoe hybridized by partially hollowed soles. They carry the new Onitsuka Tiger logo with bolder lettering in yellow and black, the brand’s signature colors.
See the collection below:
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