“I didn’t start doing graffiti until two years after I got to New York. Jean Michel Basquiat was one of my main inspirations for doing graffiti. For a year I didn’t know who Jean Michel was, but I knew his work”.
Keith Haring talks about Jean Michel Basquiat. Haring and Basquiat: prophets of a generation, controversial voices of that street culture that had been demanding attention since a long time. The art that comes from the street. The street that becomes a tool to create art. Even our guest is convinced of that. He is Luke Meier: ex creative director at Supreme and founder of OAMC together with Arnaud Faeh.
OAMC was born in 2013. The intention is to create a brand with a contemporary, innovative and together traditional tone. It is a brand that makes high quality its main feature, there are no compromises. It is an ode to the modern elegance, soberly audacious. A comfortable elegance that winks at the most authentic street- style: genuine expression of trends indifferent to the usual, inflated fashion circuits.
Fucking Young! – Welcome Luke! Let’s start with you… In 2013, you decided to join forces with Arnaud Faeh and found OAMC: the label for the modern urban male. When and how did you realize it was the right time?
Luke Meier – We both felt it was the right time because we couldn’t find what we wanted in the market. The approach I use in design is autobiographical, so I first think of what I want and then we make it.
FY! – Why OAMC?
LM – OAMC is a 4-letter vehicle for different concepts. Over All Master Cloth, Olympic Alpine Mountain Club, as examples.
FY! – You and Arnaud have different backgrounds but the same passion for casual elegance. How do two so different souls combine? How much and what is there of you and how much and what is there of Arnaud?
LM – I am the creative director, so all design and concepts are my responsibility. Arnaud takes care of the business. Of course outside of those designations there is a strong dialog between us concerning all facets of what we’re doing. Although we’re different, the similarity that helps us make OAMC work is our commitment to the vision of the brand.
FY! – We spoke about your background. You were the creative director of Supreme, a “lodestar” for the skate lovers. What did you learn there? How important was it for your own personal and professional growth?
LM – The most important thing I learned at Supreme is to not compromise. James Jebbia is someone who doesn’t ever settle, regardless of how small or insignificant a detail can seem. This is what people don’t really appreciate about Supreme; everything is well thought out and carefully considered; it’s not just a brand about hype, and that’s why it’s lasted. I can say that working there really gave me confidence in my own perspective and that, while difficult, starting your own business and experiencing success is possible.
FY! – If I tell you streetstyle, what do you reply to me?
LM – A term that creates an incorrect image of what certain brands do. It’s also something that I feel is undervalued by the established fashion world. To me, streetstyle is where everything starts; it’s the most creative and genuine form of expression through fashion. It’s also an honest reflection of culture; fashion and streetstyle grow from other forms of creation and culture, like music or skateboarding. When I think of “streetstyle” or “streetwear” now, it has a negative connotation of a bad t-shirt brand. When I started at Supreme in the late 90s, this term wasn’t used; we just cared about making great pieces, which is what we continue to do at OAMC.
FY! – Streetstyle, innovation, and tradition. OAMC merges functionality with luxurious materials, modern construction & high aesthetic consideration. How would you define your current mood? Who is the man that you want to wear OAMC?
LM – My current mood is that I’m tired of disposable, useless things. There are simply too many unnecessary things in all of our lives and we really need to get back to what’s important. Anyone who appreciates high quality, contemporary clothes can wear OAMC, and I’m most pleased if that represents a wide range of people.
FY! – The brand offers total look, including outerwear, knitwear, woven shirts and bottoms, shoes, leather goods, and accessories. All of them are produced in Italy, France, Portugal, and Japan and are offered in limited quantities. The majority of the materials, trims, hardware, and other components are custom developed and produced for OAMC, and the products that are made represent the highest in quality standards. Today, how important is it to respect these standards? What are the difficulties?
LM – Quality is extremely important. Why should we make crap? We, as a society, should be able to offer good products in every shape and size for the right value; certain things can be cheap, some can be expensive but all should be things that last, serve a purpose, are beautiful, or are inspiring. At OAMC we are trying to make high-level, long lasting garments. Because of our materials and the manufacturing skill we utilize, our products are not cheap, but we are giving a fair value to the customer and that is important to me.
FY! – Do you want to speak about your “nautical” collection, the SS15 one?
LM – I looked at the beauty in materials from modern sailing equipment and incorporated some of the aspects into what we made in SS15. We used some interesting multi-directional ripstops, elements of transparency, various ropes, and rubberized finishings. While functional, a lot of these types of elements have interesting aesthetic characteristics.
FY! – What is the item that best represents your collection?
LM – The Lightweight Parka. Incredible paper-touch Japanese nylon, slight transparency, great shape.
FY! – What could you never give up in your life?
LM – Music. Besides a loved one, it’s absolutely the only thing that can immediately change your mood. It’s essential everyday.
FY! – As usual, our last question. For you, what is really FUCKING YOUNG!?
LM – Hov.
