Miaoran Spring/Summer 2017
by Yari Fiocca
Armani Teatro turned into a sea bottom to host Miaoran‘s Ichthyophobia. Cold lights illuminated a series of thin and sheer curtains hanging down softly from the ceiling to the floor as a fluctuating giant jellyfish. Miaoran’s statement ‘uncompromised style, genderless esthetic and minimal tailored precision’ was displayed in spades. He started his brand in 2014 and over the seasons his research on materials has brought a new awareness to his identity as a designer. In spite of his European education, Miao did not forget his Chinese roots that are a primary source of inspiration when it comes to his designs. Ichthyophobia- meaning ‘fear of fish’, a little help for the ones who did not study Greek!- goes heavy on textures: linen, popeline, rough denim, sandwash silk and weaved raffia. The silhouette is defined by long coats, cropped and oversized trousers and boxy tops combining mat and delavé materials as the colour assortment is narrowed down to black, white, azure, pale coral and ivory. It does not take too much to predict that this guy has a very remarkable avenue even if I think that today’s fashion system is not ready yet to fully appreciate conceptual collections.
The Best of London Collections Men SS17
Gucci Spring/Summer 2017
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