This season at LCM saw the return of a more simplified aesthetic for the subtle and unassuming man; think beige Burberry style checks from Agi & Sam, clean white looks from Matthew Miller and classic stripes from E Tautz & Tiger of Sweden. But underneath this serene façade was a wave of unruly rebellion just waiting to mess things up and make people take note. Here are some prime examples from this season’s rule-breakers.
J.W.Anderson SS17
J.W.Anderson decided to raid a boy’s toy box this season with a sprightly and striking take on childhood playtime. Mischief and mayhem apparently ran wild on the runway as models marched around like toy soldiers in a range of oversized looks that somewhat swamped their silhouettes. Candy colour-block jumpers in punchy pick ‘n’ mix hues had dramatically elongated sleeves, while checked shirts virtually draped to the knees, giving off the impression that kids were playing dress-up in their dad’s wardrobe. This image was further invoked by the odd addition of neon ski-goggles that were clearly meant for father’s Chamonix ski-trip rather than a random display on a fashion catwalk. But this chaos and commotion captured the cheerful spirit of the collection, which brought a welcome splash of fun and frivolity to an often too serious menswear scene. Multi-coloured Manga prints, puzzles and polka-dots were playfully appealing along with a sugary spectrum of super sweet hues; think Ribena purple jackets, cheery Cherryade coats and turquoise tangerine knitwear, topped off with crowns fit for a King, but seemingly hand-made from a child’s Lego set. Lollipop pink shoes and trippy tie-dye plaid prints rounded off the randomness with a lively childsplay twist.
Mihara Yasuhiro SS17
The playful atmosphere certainly continued with cult Japanese design talent Mihara Yasuhiro, who hit a sensational strike by showcasing his bold collection in a Bloomsbury bowling arcade. Retro Americana influences were everywhere as models moved swiftly down the bowling alleys in a nostalgic mix of embroidered biker jackets, dishevelled denims and Varsity slogan sweatshirts. A taste of youthful rebellion was in the air with roughed up graffiti print jeans while paisley cowboy neckties and curly Rockabilly hairstyles made us think of All American heroes like Elvis Presley and James Dean, looking fresh and feisty in their 50s heydays. This vision was enhanced with slick leather biker jackets featuring rugged rocker tattoo motifs, while a cool collegiate ‘frat boy’ aesthetic was invoked in the baseball game bomber jackets and sporty football training session hoodies. Eye-catching camouflage looks ramped up the machismo mood with a pseudo-aggressive energy that was quickly balanced out with whimsical ‘Dude’ slogans on the bowling shirts, and fun playing card graphics on cardigans and coats. Clashing fabric mixes, candy stripe jumpers and oversized zips further added to the captivating air of adolescent dissent.
Christopher Shannon SS17
Rebel youths also seemed to be the subject of Christopher Shannon’s show which focused on functional teenage tearaway looks for the typical British ‘lad.’ Sporty tracksuits in masculine blue hues evoked images of boisterous football hooligans making mischief on the streets, while denim Harrington jackets conveyed the British legacy of mods and skinheads trying to look cool outside of school. The essence of this laddish look was directly displayed using sly slogan references to fast-fashion sportswear giant Sports Direct, as well as Shannon’s candid collaboration with Hi-Tec footwear, another emblem of Brit-kid streetwear swagger. Denim stood out as the key fabric of choice for the boyish models who strutted with a youthful and carefree attitude to the cheesy Brit-pop sounds that typically accompany so many of Shannon’s shows. Big and baggy jeans gave off a 90s TLC / Dr Dre vibe while rips and patchwork fabrics looked ravaged like the second-hand vintage clothes that cool kids wear at the weekend in Brick Lane. Neon highlighter hoodies and track pants finished off the rebel youth vibe with references to 90s rave culture amidst glow-sticks and flashy fluoro lights.
Bobby Abley SS17
Youth remained the primary focus of Bobby Abley’s show too, which whisked everyone off to a land of mystical make-believe via Magic Carpet Airways. An Aladdin’s Cave of fine fashion treasures awaited spectators at the Disney-inspired spectacle, which showcased much-loved Disney cartoon characters in a myriad of Middle Eastern inspired silhouettes. Sweeping tunic style neoprene sweatshirts resembled Muslim thawbs, which were gracefully adorned with exotic Arabic scriptures and golden genie lamps. Then lustrous Lawrence of Arabia capes appeared in eclectic Persian motifs before things reached melting point with flame print hoodies and track pants that echoed the sweltering temperatures of lost desert cities. But just before we broke out in a sweat, things cooled down a little as Aladdin’s friendly Genie appeared with his characteristic comic-book grin on an icy blue sweatshirt. Aladdin’s adorable monkey sidekick Abu wasn’t that far behind with his puzzled and perplexed expression on a chocolate brown sweater and sweatpant combo, while Princess Jasmine popped up too in glittering satin sheen and sequin womenswear looks that were clearly fit for any princess. Bubble-gum coloured jackets and swimwear caught our eye with romantic cloud prints that made us dream of flying through the sky on a Magic Carpet ride, just like in the movie. But things were brought back down to earth with Bobby’s classic bear motifs which grounded the collection with his signature look.
Katie Eary SS17
The scene then swiftly shifted from bears in the Middle East to barracudas in the deep blue sea as Katie Eary took over the runway with a colourful cacophony of oceanic images. Lavish silk and satin fabrics were artfully crafted into sparkling summer outfits that shone with a glassy finish, like shards of sunlight on shimmering seawaters. The collection definitely dived into the deep with adventurous fish prints that dominated key looks with a vivid visual appeal. Blush coral tones provided the background shade on silk shirts, shorts and bomber jackets as giant sea creatures swam around on top in aquamarine and lucid azure hues. American flag stars and stripes interrupted these bold looks with more classic and cultivated patterns that were properly pared down when twinned with perfectly tailored chinos in some of the more muted ensembles. But exaggerated luxury was definitely the main aim of the game here as models wrapped themselves up in delicately striped cashmere jumpers and fanciful faux fur coats in later runway looks. This juxtaposed perfectly with the breezy creativity of key statement pieces, like the silk shirts showcasing a cocktail collage of stars, stripes and fish in one impactful visual punch. Yet again, Eary succeeded in perfectly symphonising art, functionality and refinement in a deliciously cocky and confident way.
KTZ SS17
Confidence also ran amok in the Kokontozai show, which was staged in a subterranean concrete cave beside the waters of the river Thames. Macho muscled models didn’t give a fuck as they stormed down the runway in a range of sado-masochistic looks like tight sheer and leather vests finished off with rubber bondage gear and thick metal chains. The gritty and grimy underground rave scenes of Berlin were then imagined as a flurry of fetish-like looks lashed out across the showspace, revealing flesh, muscles and tattoos in all directions through laser cut-outs and flashy translucent fabrics. PVC shirts and jumpsuits looked sexually charged on deliberately cruisy skinhead models as hoodies and t-shirts divulged bodily details using provocatively placed cut-outs in the shapes of circles and stars. These cosmological patterns reflected the celestial star maps which inspired the show, and could be seen in the finishing looks via crystal-studded see-through tops featuring zodiac figures amidst glistening planetary systems. It was a blissful blend of erotic energy and starry science fiction which was raw and totally modern, for the city clubkid boys with only fun on their minds.
