A Menswear Moment at Lichting in Amsterdam
by Philippe Pourhashemi
If Dutch designers are often low profile, they are nevertheless hard workers who stick to their guns, the best example being Lucas Ossendrijver, who has been creating stunning collections at Lanvin for more than a decade. Dutch fashion schools are vibrant, exciting and often full of ideas, blending the raw with the conceptual, historicism with global concerns. This was my first time being part of the jury at Lichting 2017, a great initiative launched in 2007 by HTNK and FashionWeek Netherlands. The purpose of Lichting is to promote the best graduates from the country and award them with 2 prizes: the international jury awards the winner of the competition with 10.000€ while the audience prize, worth 3000€, goes to another graduate. This year, 3 menswear collections clearly stood out.
Lizzy Stuyfzand -who graduated with a BA in Fashion design from ArtEZ in Arnhem- delivered an energetic collection inspired by London club kids and Austrian craftsmen. She walked away with the 10.000€ jury award, which she will use to pursue her textile research. Bold, confident and playful, her clothes were a convincing mix of contemporary tailoring, fancy accessories and contrasting textures, associating sheer fabrics with embroidery techniques, man-made materials with high-quality yarns. Her collection also played with the current gender divide while keeping a strong masculine vibe, even when she sent out a transparent green skirt on the runway, worn with a lurex trimmed shirt. Teun Seuren, who graduated from HKU in Utrecht, was inspired by hooligans and gay power, printing swear words and homophobic slurs on his delicate mesh t-shirts, which subverted the classic language of sportswear. His message was powerful, yet subtle, focusing on wide-legs pants and a softer silhouette, as well as a restrained color palette of red and white. Sophie Roumans, who graduated from Utrecht’s School of the Arts, also had politics in mind with a collection that focused on global warming. Entitled “The Promise”, her clothes hinted at the ambiguity of human behavior towards the planet, creating and destroying it at the same time. Her draping was beautiful, as well as her loose tailored pieces and use of knitwear. Placing drawstrings on several pieces, she managed to play with hems and proportions, offering garments that were intelligent and seductive at once.
If those 3 graduates play their cards well, you’ll probably hear from them in the near future.
Photos by Team Peter Stigter
www.lichting.nl
Das Leben am Haverkamp Cruise 2018 Lookbook
1997 throwback – A conversation with Ton Heukels
A$AP Rocky announces via an Instagram post that he is the new star of Bottega Veneta’s Pre-Spring 2024 “Readymade” campaign.
The collection is mainly composed of urban/sporty style garments such as hoodies, t-shirts, or trousers, which are combined with caps and what is considered the jewel of the project: footwear.
In case you didn’t know, singer Harry Styles has a beauty brand called Pleasing and has just launched a line of scented candles.
The collection, titled ‘The Limit Does Not Exist – Part 1’, is the first of a series of drops that will showcase the collaboration between the two creative minds.
Josh at ICE Models South Africa photographed by HAOYU JIN and styled by Funky, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
The move is part of the repositioning of its fashion business, which is now managed in its entirety by Interparfums.
What will the first collection by Matteo Tamburini for Tod’s look like?
Balenciaga has made history by holding its first show in Los Angeles, California.
END. and Columbia drop their second collection together with a nod to Oregon’s iconic Douglas Fir smiley face.
The French fashion house AMI has unveiled a new capsule collection and a digital Mystery Box to spice up the holiday season.
ADER error presents its joint collaboration with Swarovski for clothing, accessories, jewellery and more.
The Belgian Fashion Awards 2023 celebrated the best of Belgian fashion on Thursday evening at the historic Handelsbeurs in Antwerp.
KENZO has teamed up with the talented Japanese artist VERDY to create a special collection just in time for the holiday season. The collection features custom graphics by VERDY, who is known for his bold,… »
Anouz, a Seoul-based brand, has launched its new collection inspired by the 80s cult classic movie “Withnail and I”.
The collection is a reflection of designer Jekeun Cho’s fascination with the modern male psyche and the paradox of growing up.
HELIOT EMIL adds to its Fall/Winter 2023 collection the “Drifted Down Piece”, which can be worn in 57 different ways.
Fear of God, the fashion brand founded by Jerry Lorenzo in 2013, has unveiled its latest campaign for Athletics, a new line of sportswear created in collaboration with adidas.
Off-WhiteTM has just dropped a new pair of sneakers that will make you feel like a boss.
Italian luxury brand Moncler and American designer Rick Owens present their capsule collection.
LA-based brand Fucking Awesome unveils its Holiday 2023 collection of apparel and accessories.
Scheduled for December 4th at the Royal Albert Hall in London, The Fashion Awards is where style meets purpose, excellence, and creativity under the same spotlight.
Three and a half years is the time that the American has been at the helm of the men’s and women’s lines.
Loro Piana, the Italian luxury brand known for its exquisite fabrics and craftsmanship, has teamed up with MR PORTER to launch its latest ski collection.
If you’re looking for a way to spice up your holiday season, look no further than MODUS VIVENDI’s Party Collection for Christmas 2023.
The Dior Icons collection pays tribute to the house’s rich heritage, with subtle details that evoke the signature Dior style.
Inspired by the idea of a concrete adidas Superstar, the shoe has a minimalist and edgy aesthetic that reflects Yohji Yamamoto’s avant-garde vision.
It’s impossible to keep track of the number of collaborations that US brands Supreme and The North Face have done.
The event was attended by some of the most influential personalities of the Spanish fashion and culture scene.
Buffalo’s Source label is cranking up the cool factor with its latest collab, teaming up with Berlin’s Herrensauna to drop a fresh line of kicks that’s about to redefine your club gear.
MM6, the contemporary line of Maison Margiela, presents its Avant premiere FW24 collection, inspired by the idea of a silhouette that shifts between urban cool and couture refinement.
