Everyone was waiting for him, and not for the first time at this latest edition of Paris Fashion Week it wasn’t Pharrell, but Ludovic de Saint Sernin, who since the moment his departure from the Belgian fashion house Ann Demeulemeester was announced has remained silent – which has increased the expectation of seeing him again – and concentrated on his new proposal, presented in the incomparable setting of the Musée Des Archives Nationales and under a special golden light that the Parisian sky gave to the event, which served as the closing act of the fashion month and added more intensity to the celebration of desire, joy and queer power prepared.
The silence in which Saint Sernin has remained during these months has been reflected in the Spring/Summer 2024 collection, named “Lust” and related, from our point of view to the ” quiet luxury” movement/style that is so present nowadays in the industry. The designer’s latest line is still sexy and provocative, but becomes more sophisticated and relaxed than ever, giving extreme importance to timeless basics and the materials used in them, such as the light, handcrafted Japanese tweeds used in some of the garments.
Timelessness is something Ludovic has appreciated throughout his career. Good things stand the test of time, and that’s just the way it is. That’s why the Belgian has chosen to offer a selection of men’s clothing that stands out precisely because of this characteristic. The offer is free of all logos, except the bags and, in particular, the model made with Swarovski crystals and the “Cleavage”, made of calfskin, trimmed with eyelets and available in a wide range of colors that can be combined with the neutral-colored pieces that have been presented. This color palette has been used for the loose-fitting, flowing tailoring, which is revisited and offered in a new light. Tailoring is no longer about suits, however oversized or curved they may be, but about well-constructed shirts that are open at the front, boleros with reduced collars in airy silk crepe that convey a summery casualness.
Summer is for that, for unwinding and getting rid of the necessities, which are often clothes. So the moment you strip down and shed some of your looks, you need to be just as well prepared on the inside as you are on the outside, so it’s time to slip into leather lace-up briefs in supple lambskin from LDSS. This material is one of the creative director’s favorites, and in addition to underwear and swimwear, he also uses it in minimalist, boxy jackets. This last item has also been made in denim, as well as waistcoats and trousers. All of them in powdered tones.
In the world of jewelry, the same thing has happened with timelessness, Saint Sernin has realized how important a jewelry item can be when it comes to completing a look. It’s never too late, so it’s time to explore this field a little more. For this research he is not alone, quite the contrary, well assured by the brand founded by the New York artist Diego Villareal, Vagujhelyi. Together they have collaborated on the design of a series of articles molded in clay and cast in raw white brass, in the form of handcuffs, discipline chokers, and knuckle rings, evoking the implicit eroticism of the act of surrender, transmuting the meaning of life into love.
“Lust” by Ludovic de Saint Sernin is a celebratory portrait of queer identity at its most nuanced, most complete; a proud reminder of the values that constitute the foundations of the fashion house. Check out the collection below:
