It’s time to celebrate! It seems like only yesterday that designer Ludovic de Sant Sernin burst onto the French fashion scene and caused a sensation with a look consisting solely of a towel skirt tied at the waist and sandals; it went viral in a matter of seconds. From there, his notoriety began to grow and today, almost without realizing it, he is celebrating his fifth anniversary in fashion in Paris.
“Mirage” was the Spring/Summer 23 collection with which he celebrated five years in the industry and with which he contemplates the succession of dreams come true, going from being a fledgling brand to a proud fashion house in a short period of time. Looking at LdSS’s journey to the present day, it almost seems more like a dream or a mirage than a reality. Here, this mirage comes to life. A limitless expression of Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s spirit of fantasy, the perennial references are reinterpreted and the already unmistakable codes are reiterated.
The proposal that Saint Sernin presented to the hundreds of guests and fashion critics who flocked to the 15th arrondissement of Paris, made a nod in the opening look of the show to Robert Mapplethorpe – one of the first and most enduring conceptual references of the eponymous designer of the brand – and was based primarily on the designer’s recent sojourn to the cavernous temples of hedonism in Berlin, in last season’s raver who dons slender stretch-leather tank tops and biker shorts in matte black and worn taupe, and worn with knee-high boots – by Italian shoe manufacturer Piferi – in the same color. Skirts also enter the scene, offering a better version of them, inspired by the A-line mini skirts worn by boys at techno parties around the world, with a lace fly, box pleats, and a ruffled hem.
Adding to this new version of the skirts is the introduction of new LdSS icons that combine with the celebration of the familiar. The original eyelet brief – the brand’s undeniable signature – is interpreted in denim, leather, swimwear, and knitwear. Ruffle-edged belts – or mini-skirts, if you will – frame the iconic piece, while a range of cotton underwear with crystal hems expands access to the LdSS underwear universe. Elsewhere, its distinctive silhouette and bow tie detailing give shape to the Cleavage bag, a sleek leather baguette that can be worn over the shoulder or across the body.
More than just an anniversary, this collection celebrates the artisanal skills that Ludovic de Saint Sernin has cultivated in his rapidly growing atelier. The denim pieces, in particular, illustrate the meticulous attention to detail invested in the making of each piece, with tiered denim shorts created using a method that involves removing the weft threads of the fabric one by one, with equally delicate techniques resulting in the fine stripes of a drawstring jacket, as well as the “fur” found on its collar and cuffs.
Finally, on the occasion of this celebration, as in any event of this kind, there has to be some sparkle, right? Well, yes, and it was present in the form of tops made with Swarovski crystals. This union between LdSS and Swarovksi will become an event in the city, on October 3, and for a week there will be a presentation of the most iconic crystal pieces of the fashion house. This presentation will be open to everyone and will allow the brand’s community to come together and toast the dreams achieved in the last 5 years and the many more that will come true.
Take a look at the collection below: