Kris Van Assche Fall/Winter 2015
by Adriano Batista



































Kris Van Assche unveiled his Fall/Winter 2015 collection during Paris Fashion Week.
“For this season I had in mind the image of an urban soldier,” explains Kris Van Assche. “It is fundamentally an urban collection because I like suits, active wear and active characters. This time, I wanted the sporting element that I frequently return to, to be almost military in feel. I could imagine a guy on a bike in New York risking life and limb – a sort of city warrior. I wanted a look that felt streamlined rather than relaxed: energetic, fast, precise. In many ways it is an idea of sportswear meeting the New Wave; technical clothes with an aggressive, post-punk tailored attitude.”
In his twenty-first show and collection under his own name, Kris Van Assche explores twenty-first century preoccupations of the city and speed, with masculine dress for a new breed of urban warrior.
Here, the slim-fit grey suit transforms into a hybrid, streamlined cycling outfit, layered over the bicycle jersey, gathered at the ankles or calves. Mixed with the military motif of camouflage, blown up, appliqued and made to stand out in the cityscape rather than blend in, the emphasis is on dynamism and protection.
Military motifs are contrasted against symbols of the city; uniform ruching is transposed to tailoring, frequently gathering backs of sleeves and trousers; technical nylon parkas, trimmed in frost fox fur, are layered over hyper-real chalk stripe, pinstripe wools; intricate, contrasting stitch knits become a new kind of textured camouflage; military Melton wools form a new take on the great coat with technical zips and Velcro fastenings.
Youthful codes of rebellion are replaced by an adult understanding of them, for one, the clichéd New Wave colours of black and red are a vivid reminder of the past made present – and there is always truth in a cliché. At the same time, an eighties New Wave attitude is contrasted against contemporary technical sportswear.
“I liked the idea that this guy would wear sportswear during the day, but would listen to New Wave during the evening,” says Kris Van Assche. “That these fragments of the past, the things you grow up with, would be brought into the future and guide the direction you want to travel in.”
Yohji Yamamoto FW15 Backstage!
JUUN.J Fall/Winter 2015
Courrèges, the French fashion brand currently creatively directed by Nicolas Di Felice, presents its Resort 2026 collection.
Diesel’s 2025 Pride capsule collection, created with the Tom of Finland Foundation, is all about freedom, freedom to express yourself, to love who you want, and to be unapologetically you.
Andrii Barabash at Elite photographed by Adrian Cuerdo and styled by Matíos & Cesar, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
PUMA has once again joined forces with French designer Louis Gabriel Nouchi, this time revisiting the 1999 Mostro Mule.
Over fifty emerging Finnish designers presented their collections at the Amos Rex SS25 fashion show, held in the courtyard of Helsinki’s Amos Rex museum on May 23rd. The event formed part of Fashion in… »
Resort 2026 by DSQUARED2 is rebellion at its purest!
Japanese artist Kunimasa Aoki has won the 2025 Loewe Foundation Craft Prize for his terracotta sculpture Realm of Living Things 19.
This collaboration reflects Paloceras’ approach to eyewear design, where technical precision meets handcrafted detail.
Last week, Helsinki became a focal point for fashion innovation as Aalto University presented its graduating students’ work at Näytös25.
Gal Nell Dahan debuts in menswear with his Fall/Winter 2025 collection, characterized by timelessness, rich fabrics, and sustainability.
This summer, the Monte-Carlo Beach Club has a new look, thanks to Jacquemus.
Nike’s latest running shoe, the Structure 26, arrives with a clear mission to deliver serious stability without sacrificing comfort.
Helsinki has long been an incubator for avant-garde creativity, and this year’s Fashion in Helsinki solidified its reputation as a nexus where fashion and art dissolve into one another.
The shoe takes inspiration from mid-century track runners but gives them Margiela’s signature deconstructed touch.
YSL Beauty has announced actor and musician Aron Piper as its new ambassador for Spain and Portugal. The 27-year-old star perfectly embodies the brand’s values of authenticity and individuality, aligning with the ethos of… »
The launch campaign, “EVERYTHING NOW – LEAVE NOTHING UNEXPRESSED,” captures the energy of a generation that treats every day as a chance to reinvent.
In a world that still asks “Does anyone even want to be a man anymore?”, their answer is a middle finger wrapped in glitter.
It began with a disruption: intentional, visual, and unapologetic. GLITCH wasn’t designed to follow clean lines or play it safe.
The organisation in charge of the prestigious ANDAM fashion competition unveils the list of finalists for the 36th edition.
Instead of just taking backstage shots himself, photographer Joonas S’Diri handed his phone to the models and let them take selfies.
Junya Watanabe joins forces with Alpha Industries to deliver a biker jacket defined by military rigor and Japanese avant-garde simplicity.
Granado teams up with Guimarães Rosa Institute and the French Institute for the fourth edition of ABERTO.
Indeed, after the calm that the last two months have brought (especially for those who work in the industry), it’s back to what, for some, is the most dreaded date: Fashion Week, which is not just a week, but a… »
The event highlighted a mix of established brands and new designers, all recognized for their focus on sustainability, creativity, and meaningful design.
The capsule collection takes the duo’s chaotic, genre-defying energy and turns it into wearable rebellion.
Persol’s Latest Drop is a Love Letter to Cinema and Steve McQueen
Maksym Rassokha captured by the lens of Oleg Borisuk and styled by Kiss Mark, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
To mark its anniversary, LOEWE is releasing the Puzzle 10 collection, a tribute to a decade of innovation.
For their 20th anniversary, END. joins forces with Aries to drop Arcade, a capsule collection built on nostalgia for 90s gaming culture, drift racing, and the gritty charm of seaside arcades.