JORDANLUCA Spring/Summer 2020
by Samuel Jacobson
Wireframe spheres arc, scorpion-like, over the heads of models, suspended from bars secured to parachute chest rigs. The planetary reference is fitting for a show that promises the essential idea of ‘the future’ without identifying with a specific tomorrow. With JORDANLUCA we enter the moment at which night turns into day, and the division between the two no longer makes sense. The brand’s SS20 offering is savagely on-trend, fusing gutter elegance to technical athletic-wear.
Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetti bring formal Italian to a London rave. It is an act of mutiny, delivered with precision. Where rebellion generally conjures chaos, here we see an obsession with control. Shoulders cut broad and aggressive on a sleeveless longline parka and twisted vest, whose black material is at home with the nylon that dominates. Thin, oversized short-sleeve button-downs hang pressed and rigid, sometimes bearing an interlocking pattern of rats. Tank tops are cut above the pectorals, like a harness, evoking the glowing laser future of the late 90’s defined by The Fifth Element. A closer look at a necklace bag shows beer cans and roses, sitting atop the understated, and imminently wearable uniform of an east-London DJ: oversized blue hoodie with green ripstop joggers and hiking boot sneakers.
The shoes are HOKA, a brightly colored chunky running brand that has recently enjoyed a spot with Salomon atop the crest of the trail-runner wave. JORDANLUCA pairs them with high padded ski socks. A minimalist riff on the tie-dye moment, they present a slouchy linen button down in black with white streaks. Tie-dye returns on a key lime shirt with incorporated graphic harness, above a shell and feather key chain. The metallic/gravel tracksuit and cherry-red windbreaker shorts also demand mention.
Drapes give way to an abundance of unexpected skin, promising a dawn, though it may be more electromagnetic than solar. We watch in the echoing, pulsing rave, through this serotonin fantasy, beginning to grasp the title JORDANLUCA chose: Maledetta Primavera – an accursed spring.
STREETSTYLE | London Fashion Week Men’s SS20 – Part 1
C2H4 SS20 Backstage!
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